This year, this season, Massimiliano Giornetti has taken Salvatore Ferragamo in a new direction. This simply means that the urbane and slick chic of last fall’s triumphantly graphic collection is this year’s edgier more minimalist offering without a pattern in sight.
The question that I have is why the drastic turn of events? Even though this year is totally modern and full of technologically engineered fabrications and shows off the immaculate workmanship of the clothes, I remain in the camp of last year’s esthetic. These clothes are geometric and structured without looking rigid, again an art form and talent that most designers do not possess, and show remarkable restraint in that they are barely accessorized so that the focus is on the apparel and not the accessories. Speaking of accessories, I found the footwear to be distracting and not necessarily compatible to the clothes. I wonder if the clothes would have benefited from a more traditional boot and shoe.
Oddly, when reviewing the men’s collection, I was upset that the outerwear never came off the model and we never got to see the underpinnings and the same has happened here. I will admit that here, with women’s, the coats and outerwear were not so tightly closed up so you were able to see more but then again, with not a lot of contrast going on, it was difficult at best to see. again, a lot of foreplay but ..shall we say .. no cigar!
The take away here is simple …. Did I like the collection? …. Yes … Did I love the collection? … No…. was I disappointed? … Yes … was I expecting more? … Yes! I have not lost faith in the designer or the brand; I remain hopeful and fully understand the constraints and pressures of this business to constantly devise the newest and the latest, so I will wait it out and come back for more next season.