I have a love hate thing going with Nina Ricci and Peter Copping which allows me to have this train wreck mentality about the brand. I have to look at it every season and I am guessing that I keep hoping that Mr. Copping can make the brand viable once again.
For some of us who remember the brand from times gone by, it was a real staple of fashion… very Jolie Madame, very conservative and ladylike. No one, not even I, have any desire to see that kind of styling and design employed during its reincarnation. Mr. Copping has tried to give Ricci a new image and he certainly has given it his all with this pre fall collection for 2013. I read that he would really like not to remain “a niche brand.” Well… That’s all great and good but he needs to examine the goal by examining his path to reach that goal … the clothes in the collections.
Strong points in the collection are some beautiful coats and suits which are beautifully tailored and clean and modern and certainly not matronly…. The term “Jolie laide” comes to mind although the term is not usually attached to apparel. The simpler dresses show an almost architectural look without being over constructed but then there are some glaring mis steps like a bubble gum pink number and an over draped, over executed gown. Mr. Copping certainly has the chops to achieve his goal but he needs to step back and be a bit more commercial without being boring as he demonstrates in a few dresses and the coats and suits. What comes to mind is when one is fully turned out for the day, just take off one thing and then you are ready to face the world in your latest look.
Note to designer and stylist… straight up photography works best for these capsule collections and not so much mood. Propping is unnecessary unless it is in the background and keep in mind that one NEEDS to see the clothes in a very forthright manner and not as a seated, leaning or rear view. One last thing, try and find a model that has a hairbrush! BUT the pumps are fabulous!