Welcome to world of Ricardo Tisci who sees things from grey to black and back again. Mr. Tisci delivered a far less gimmicky trendoidal and much more tailored collection which is welcomed here. It is obvious that the formula of slapping a photo transfer of some type is a successful and profitable one as here it is again albeit much less cartoonish.
The opening passages are very Thierry Mugler of yore without the much exaggerated shoulder but nonetheless collarless or cardigan style of that Mugler era. Apparently, Mr. Tisci has declared war on collars and lapels and uses them only on shirts. The war bore fruit though in the way of the collarless toggle style coats and jackets which were superb. While on the topic of outerwear, I am not sure why a jacket of some kind tied at the waist can define a style as new or innovative except in its pretense of being new.
Aside from the much disliked, by me, photo pieces, there were the clumsy patchwork whip stitched tops and coats which were less than eye candy… at least for my eyes! I am sorry that so much of the collection was so black as there might have been some wonderful pieces that were missed but due to the darkness were not seen by aging vision and not enough lighting on stage.
I have no illusion about the abilities of Mr. Tisci; I just wish he could harness them a bit more towards the less tricky! I do believe the designer could, if he really wanted to, deliver one hell of an amazingly incredible collection from start to finish… if he wanted to!
P.S. ..Kudos to Mr. Tisci for using models who didn’t look like matchsticks and had some character in their faces!