So let’s talk here. There is great and there is greatness. I truly do believe that Gareth Pugh is destined for greatness in the world of fashion. I have waited for this to happen and he gets closer and closer but it still has not happened just yet.
I believe that Mr. Pugh can accomplish a collection that can go down as one of the greats and sustain his place in the pantheon of fashion but he must restrain himself a bit as well as stretch himself a bit. The newest collection for Fall is amazing but not necessarily amazing in the ways that it should be. The presentation is as much about theater as it is about fashion and the clothes are not ready to become the stars as of now. There is too much sameness and repetition and if it isn’t then the clothes look too much alike. Yes, he is an artist and he is capable and I do think he can and will approach the likes of Alexander McQueen if he restrains his willfulness and hones his focus.
Much like McQueen, there is drama here, these are statement clothes and the clothes already show a commandingly deft hand but there needs to be some elements of real life rather than only the fantasy of his world. The clothes are romantic and voluptuous but they lack variety on so many levels which diminishes their impact and is further complicated by the lack of color and lengths. What should also be addressed here is the hair and makeup which makes the models look otherworldly not to mention slightly vampirish and ghoulish! Time to let go!
The “petal” pieces used in the final segment are spectacular as spectacle and as demonstrations of craftsmanship. They also provide a climax and serve as examples of what this designer can do when he chooses. I would love to have seen this collection re imagined as it could have been stellar and instead, I think it teases and taunts the viewer.