The thing about any collection from Andrew Gn is that one of the first things you see is how immaculately and perfectly the clothes are made. He has turned the business of fashion into an art as well as a means of commerce.
This season, as usual, the clothes are beautiful as well as a bit restrained when it comes to his signature embellishments. The colors as chic as the collection istelf. The seasonal inspiration was of things architectural such as an iron fence, the ones you see so beautifully maintained all over Paris and I believe also the reference to cathedral like windows found in the churches of long ago… think Gothic revival. These are my perceptions and not from any collection notes and designer back stories aka the blah blah blah.
The aforementioned “inspirations” are seen throughout in the quilting patterns and in the appliques as well as the embroideries. What I found less appealing was the stylized “folkloric” type of embroideries found on the peasant looking blouses. Without question, my favorite pieces of the collection started with the black and white dresses then the Prince of Wales plaids and segued to the herringbone to the salt and pepper tweeds. Loving them especially…. As I did the perfect little set of black suits and perfect LBD’s that came out toward the end.
I spoke of the quilted pieces which shone best as jackets of all varieties and one would hope that they will keep you as warm as they are exquisite. Quilting for me, should never be shown as “bottom”, and surely not as the little bell shaped skirts that seemed to have populated the collection… not a favorite of mine.
Long story short, it was a beautiful collection, yet now quite as beautiful as he is capable of but considering the strength of pre fall … this was more than just fine. I am of the school that the proportions were a bit off as well as some of the design and styling this time around. Large leather “birkinish” handbags should not be carried with cocktail suits and dresses and the clumsy shoes did nothing to help the sophisticated and urbane overall look. Some skirts seemed too short and too shaped and the blouses, which are usually major league spectacular, were or seemed a bit weak to my eye.
Ball gowns were, as usual, perfect albeit short on variety of styles but if I was forced to buy the collection, it still would be a snap to find a collection that appeals to the ladies that Mr. Gn has so assiduously catered to for years.