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How to cook with chipotles

A chipotle is a smoke-dried jalapeño. Even though chipotles are reddish-brown, jalapeños, of course, are bright green, this because they are actually unripe. At the end of growing season in Mexico, the bright red jalapeños that remain, after the green jalpeños are harvested, are also sold as as they are prized for their strong flavor. The remaining peppers, now a deep red, are those that have lost much of their moisture; these are selected to be made into chipotles. In the U.S., many growers plow the red jalapeños into the ground.

Chipotles are a staple of any Mexican kitchen, no doubt because (this according to The GourmetSleuth), they "date back to [the] region that is now northern Mexico City, prior to the Aztec civilization. It is conjectured that the Aztecs smoked the chilies because the thick, fleshy, jalapeno was difficult to dry and prone to rot. The Aztecs used the same 'smoke drying' process for the chilies as they used for drying meats. This smoking allowed the chilies to be stored for a substantial period of time."

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Today, red jalapeños are smoked for several days in a chamber on metal grills, where they are moved every few hours to improve smoke penetration, for improved flavor. When the process is complete, they appear dried up, sort of like raisins. Typically ten pounds of jalapeños make one pound of chipotles.

Chipotles are most commonly used from the can, labeled "chipotles en adobo," which just means that they are canned in a mixture made from the very same pepper, vinegar and tomato sauce. This is a convenient way to add just a touch their smoky, spicy flavor to a salad dressing or mayonnaise -- just spoon out a small amount and blend with your base of choice. The result will be less spicy than if you were to add, let's say, a whole chipotle. You can find a vast assortment of chipotles en adobo easily, anywhere from the larger chain stores, like Safeway or Mi Pueblo, to Mexican markets, like Casa Lucas, throughout San Francisco.

To make a simple and delicious chipotle salsa, recipe from Tres Señoritas Gourmet,  you'll need:

  • one or two canned chipotle peppers
  • 6-8 plum tomatoes
  • 1/4 Spanish white onion, minced finely
  • 1-2 cloves of garlic, minced finely
  • comal
  • molcajete (or blender/food processor)

Dry-roast tomatoes on the comal all sides until they are charred. Using the molcajete, work all ingredients well until they are blended and mixed. (Hint, the tomato skins are tough, removing them and throwing them into the blender for a few seconds, then return them to the mocajete). Add sea salt to taste. For a hotter sauce, add an addiitonal chipolte or two.

Chipotle chilies are also available dry. When a recipe calls for dry chipotles, you'll want to remove the seeds and stems before using. Chipotle Molido, or in powder form, is the base for a seasoning adobado, a dry rub used for Carne Asada and Pollo Adobado. Adobado seasonings from are available pre-mixed, off-the-shelf, but these usually contain MSG, so read the labels.

To make a delicious rub, recipe from Tres Señoritas Gourmet,  you'll need:

  • two parts Chipotle Molido or several dried chipotles (so you net same amount)
  • two parts cumin powder
  • one part garlic powder
  • one part onion powder
  • 1/4 part (just a hint) Mexican Oregano
  • three parts kosher salt  (Most store-bought mixes and prepared meats seem to have a higher salt content than this).

If using dried chipotles, you'll want to be sure the grind them well. You can do this using a spice or coffee grinder, but with a good handful of dried chipoltes, seeds removed. Blend all ingredients well, store in an airtight jar.

Aside from its use as a seasoning for meat and poultry, the smoky flavor of chipotle can provide an interesting balance to chocolate in baking, a savory-sweet balance with raspberries, cranberries or even honey, or in a cream sauce with mushrooms.

, SF Fusion Food Examiner

Andrea Lawson Gray is proprietor at San Francisco-based Tres Señoritas Gourmet, a caterer specializing in authentic Mexican cuisine. Published author/columnist, and former Creative Director of a boutique ad agency, Andrea now applies a well-honed sense of design, taste and color to her unique...

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