“The greatest development of bureaucracy during the last century took place within the realm of business itself: this development put to shame the punier additions to the governmental bureaucracy. Files, vaults, places for live storage and dead storage, parade grounds and cemeteries of documents, where the records of business were alphabetically kept, with an eye to the possibility of future exploitation, future reference, future lawsuits, future contracts. This age found its form in a new form of office building: a sort of human filing case, whose occupants spent their dreary days in the circumspect care of paper: numbering, ticketing, assorting, routing, recording, manifolding, filing, to the end that the commodities and services thus controlled could be sold to the profit of the absentee owners of the corporation.”. The Culture of Cities.
The models were kitted out in squishy hats and cropped black wigs. "Decidedly avant-garde," announced the show notes. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons fame, was clearly on the mind of Mr. Armani and her 80’s avant-garde aesthetic was clearly referenced. For Mr. Armani cropped, narrow velvet pants and short fitted jackets, bridged the past with the present. Mr. Armani defined the power woman of the 1980s. The square-shouldered jackets with pleated-front pants meant equality with the boys in the workplace. Today, the jackets are short, mostly waist length, and the pants are full with fabric running from thighs to knees and or material spreading through an opened zipper running down the outside of the leg.
Skorts- half shorts and half skirts, were utilized as a counterpoint to the full-length trousers; though they look awkward; at best; and they don’t translate well for most women in the real world. Skorts are a feeble attempt by today’s designers to create something new; and different. It’s a desperate plea for original fashion in a cemetery of sameness.