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Fescue lawn overseeding: Part 2 -- Atlanta & North Georgia lawns.

It is fescue lawn overseeding time again for Atlanta and North Georgia lawns.  Gardeners and lawn rangers get your spreaders out, and get your garden lawns up to par!  This summer has been brutal for many Atlanta and North Georgia fescue turf grass lawns.

At this point you should have already evaluated your lawn, and tested your soil.  If you haven't, check out Part 1 of this series.  If you have, read on, we will be preparing the soil for overseeding.

At this stage you are between a few days to two weeks away from actually applying the fescue turf grass seed, depending on your particular lawn situation.

If you have more than 50% loss or undesirable turf in your lawn, you may want to seriously consider a complete lawn replanting.  Many of the steps in this series will still apply. 

Preparation:

  1. Measure the square footage of your lawn. The simplest method is to break your lawn into rectangular areas, establish the square footage of each, add them, and then subtract the approximate square footage of any islands or beds.
  2. Get out your soil test results, read the recommended amendments and nutrients, and purchase the quantities you need for your lawn. 
  3. Purchase the appropriate amount of fescue seed for your lawn square footage.  Plan on about 5 lbs of seed per 1000 square feet of lawn.  In selecting a fescue seed blend, read the Agricultural Department label, and select a seed blend with both 0% weed seed and 0% noxious weed seed.  Do not allow the Garden Center department guy to tell you there is no such thing.  You Do Not want to be intentionally planting weeds.
  4. Treat you lawn for any existing weeds with a post-emergent herbicide.  You may need two applications, one for broadleaf weeds, and one for grass-type weeds.  Read the chemical labels carefully, and follow all application directions.  Allow the appropriate amount of time between applications, and before overseeding.
  5. Apply any nutrient amendments recommended by your soil test, except any feritilizers at this point.  Fertilizers will be applied later.  Water the nutrients in well (lime, gypsum, etc).
  6. Determine your watering plan ahead of time.  In ground irrigation?  Hoses and sprinklers?  Purchase the hoses, etc you need, have your sprinkler system tested, or arrange to have one installed, before you overseed.

If at any point, you run into a snag, are unsure of the chemical treatments, or can't find appropriate grass seed, contact a lawn or landscape professional.

That's all the preparation at this point.  The next step will be actually overseeding.  Stay tuned.

Check out our Resource Page for additional gardening and lawn info.

Leave your comments or ask any question below.

Abdurrahim is the lead designer at metro-Atlanta based, award-winning Proudland Landscape, LLC.
You can contact him with question via email at arjalal@proudlandlandscape.com.
Follow him on Twitter at twitter.com/Proudland.
Also, check our Facebook fan page facebook.com/ProudLandscape

Comments

  • Amnon Porat 3 years ago

    In our experience with fescue, if you do all those procedures 2-3 weeks later (in spite of the cooler weather), the grass will germinate slower but much better, because the weather is cooler so the ground is warmer. Thus, the seeds will penetrate deeper into the ground and will have a stronger root system. Lawncare in Atlanta can be challenging. http://aandpdesigners.com

  • Scott Brown 2 years ago

    So many times I come upon a lawn treated by either homeowner or another lawn company, to find visible signs of moss growing on the surface of the soil. As an FYI to readers anytime - ANY time you see moss, it is purely indicative of the pH being too acidic. The rule being, if moss can grow, usually grass cannot.

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