The Vogel family in the Colombian Andes
This is a newsletter from Family on Bikes. The family of four is currently cycling the Pan American Highway from Alaska to Argentina as the 11-year-old twin boys attempt to break the world record as the youngest cyclists to bike the entire Pan Am. See a slide show of cycling the Colombian Andes here.
September 18, 2009
We’re home – at least it feels that way. Some friends of ours happened to have a house sitting empty here in Manizales, Colombia and they graciously allowed us to use it. It didn’t take long for it to feel like home!
As we made our way through the coastal plains of Colombia, we couldn’t wait to reach the Andes, as bizarre as that may sound. I mean – why would we want to endure hour after hour of agonizingly slow progress as we grind up steep mountainsides. But those mountains also meant cooler temperatures – and we couldn’t wait for that. The heat and humidity of the lowlands was getting to us and we were ready to escape.
Once we hit the Andes – we hit them. Bang on. Smacked into the mountain chain like a kid into a swingset pole. We crossed the river and headed up. Up to the heavens. We climbed. And climbed. And climbed. There ain’t no foot hills for the Andes – just massive 8- or 9-thousand foot peaks separated by valleys at near sea level. 7500 feet of climbing in 55 kilometers. (For you non-cyclists out there, that means steep. Very steep.) We split the climb into two days, but even so I could barely stumble into the hotel room by the end of the second day. It was tough.
But the Andes have also brought delights – gorgeous mountain views, cooler temps, and fabulous villages. We’ve enjoyed hanging out in the small mountain towns watching all the comings and goings – all day long! We were in hot areas for so long I had accepted the bare streets in the middle of the day as normal. But suddenly, I walked out of our hotel at midday and fell headlong into… a throng of people! People lined the streets going about their daily business – in the middle of the day, no less! Now that temperatures weren’t hovering around the century mark, there was no need to be hidden at that time! What a surprise!
Eventually, our wheels brought us into Medellin where, we hoped, we would be able to get Davy’s ingrown toenail taken care of. Yes – we are still plagued by these blasted ingrown toenails! In Medellin his toe was too infected to operate – so we put it off until Manizales. And finally – yesterday – we got it taken out. We had talked about getting the ends of his roots snipped so the nail grows in more narrow, but opted to wait and see if we can get the nails to grow in properly without that. We may still end up having the procedure done at some point, but not now.
And so that brings me to right here, right now. We are staying in a lovely little town way up in the mountains right outside of a big city. We have access to the city by an easy bus ride, but the kids are free to run around and explore to their hearts content here in La Enea. We’ve got a small house with a kitchen (yes, I did say that – a kitchen!), and are enjoying being sedentary for a few weeks. They even have pancake mix in the local supermarket – the kids are in heaven!
John is rebuilding all three of the bikes with the help of a local mechanic who came very highly recommended. Unfortunately, the spokes to rebuild my rear wheel didn’t get ordered due to a miscommunication, so we are stuck here waiting for them to arrive. We’ve been told they should arrive in less than two weeks now, and are hoping to get back on the road shortly after.
And so it is – we’ve now entered a new phase of the journey. The Andes! As we slowly make our way southward, the Andes will grow in magnitude. The vast green hillsides of Colombia will make way for the rough, jagged peaks most people think of when they consider the Andes. But for now we are enjoying getting to know Colombia and have fallen head-over-heels in love with the people. The adventure continues!
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Read our other newsletters here:
Read y for takeoff: June 6, 2008
Dalton Highway in Alaska: June 28, 2008
Alaska Highway: August 3, 2008
Crossi ng into mainland USA: September 10, 2008
In Montana, Wyoming, and Utah: October 17, 2008
Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico: November 19, 2008
No rthern Mexico: January 25, 2009
Yucatan Peninsula: March 14, 2009
Belize, Guatemala, & Honduras: April 15, 2009
Ni caragua & Costa Rica: June 25, 2009
Costa Rica & Panama: July 21, 2009
Made it to South America: August 16, 2009
In the Colombian Andes: September 18, 2009
At the Equator: December 20, 2009
Southern Ecuador: February 7, 2010
Comments
Wish I was there! The best you, I'll be checking in.
I found your trip across the US while searching for Linden,TX where I live. I see you stayed with a friend of mine Jerry Harp, wish I could have met you.Take Care
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