If you've been following this column, your pantry is stocked (see Stocking your Mexican pantry) and you've got the kitchen tools to match (see Of chiquihuites, comals and cazuelas). Now, let's take a look at some of the techniques that are common to Mexican cuisine:
- Tostar (to dry-roast) Frequently, this is the very first step in preparing a Mexican dish, utilizing the comal, over high heat. Oils were not introduced to Mexico until the arrival of the Europeans; this dry method of sealing flavor into, or getting the most flavor out of chiles or tomatoes (red or green), primarily for salsas is an Aztec technique. Wash and dry chiles before roasting them on a very hot comal, and remove from heat quickly, before they begin to change color, at which point the flavor becomes bitter. For tomatoes, roast until their skins blister, turning frequently so all sides of the tomato are charred. Leaving the charrred skin on adds a smoky, more intense flavor, often favored in salsas, Pre-roasting garlic (with the skin on... on a hot comal just until it jumps just, a little softens the garlic, at which point the skin comes off easily) makes a sweeter garlic flavor than raw garlic, desirable in some recipes. Some seeds such as cumin and sesame, should be toasted on the comal before being ground.
- Moler (to mill or pound) Usually the second step in creating a salsa, using the the blender, which is arguably the most indespensable tool in any Mexican kitchen, replacing, for most recipes, the molcajete (see slide show). "The process of grinding chiles, herbs, spices and tomatoes in a molcajete is labor-intensive, and an alternative is to grind dry ingredients, such as spices, in a spice or coffee mill before combining them with other ingredients. Whether using a molcajete, blender or food processor, garlic and salt should be ground together before adding the remaining ingredients," this according the Karen Hursh Graber, who writes frequently and brilliantly on Mexican food and its history. In Secrets of Mexican cooking: Abuelita Chocolate, we talked about using a a Molcajete y Tejolote or traditional Mexican mortar and pestle, to pound your small block of pure cane sugar and Mexican chocolate into powder form. Generations ago, Mexican women worked hard and long with metate in hand to ground corn for thier fresh, daily tortillas. This arduous task has been replaced with a trip to the local molino (mill), which grounds fresh corn for those who still make thier tortillas the old-fashioned way. And we thought we understood slow-cooking!
- Poner a Sudar refers to the method used to "sweat", usually poblano chiles, to remove the charred skin, which was charred during the dry-roasting process above. The poblano is Mexico's favorite chile, showing up in everything from chunky salsas, to rajas (see Rajas con Maiz Poblano strips with corn recipe) to stuffed chiles (see Red, white and green: foods to celebrate Mexican Independence Chile en Nogada recipe). After you prepare the chiles by dry-roasting. remove and place chilies immediately into a plastic bag, tie the bag well so that the chiles can sweat. This will make it possible to remove their thin outer skin. To do this, take the chilies out of the plastic bag after about 10 minutes and run them under cold water, peeling off the skin. It should seperate easily.
- Sofreir is a method of sautéeing so as to soften a tortilla, usually, in preparation for salsa, as in Enchiladas. Heating the tortilla this way, in a little very hot oil (just enough to cover your sauté pan but not enogh to cover the tortilla, you'll want to flip it so as to "wet" both sides) "seals" it so it won't fall apart when dipped in the hot salsa. Take care to thoroughly heat the oil, so the tortilla doesn't soak it up and become greasy.
- Recipe for easy, authentic Chicken Enchiladas from Tres Senoritas Gourmet
- Handmade tortillas- if you don't have time to make these yourself (see ... How to make handmade tortillas) buy them at La Palma on 24th and Florida. Don't be afraid to experiment... the green ones have ground nopalitos (baby catus ear), which add a delicate flavor, and the dark blue/black tortillas are made from blue corn masa. These specialty tortillas sell out, so shop early!
- Pulled chicken breast (boil boneless, skinless breasts in water with garlic and onion, salt, until completely cooked, reserve stock in the freezer for salsas or Arroz a la Mexicana- Mexican "Red" Rice). Let breasts cool and seperate into thin strips.
- Finely sliced iceberg lettuce
- Your choice of cooked salsa- red or green, or even chipotle, hot off the stove
- Crema Mexicana (Mexican sourcream, available at Chico's Produce on 24th and Alabama), thinned with milk until it takes on the consistency of gravy
- Finely minced Spanish white onion
- Crumbled Queso Fresco (also available at Chico's Produce)
Follow the steps above to sofrio or soften your tortilla, the dip it in the waiting warm salsa, taking care that both sides of the tortilla are "wet". Place on waiting plate, fill with a portion of the pulled chicken breast, roll so it stays closed, you may want to gently turn it over. Cover generously with more of the same salsa, and other ingredients. Figure 3-5 enchiladas per person. Serve immediately, accompanied by Frijoles Negros a la olla (Clay-pot black beans - see Using leftovers a la Mexicana Part 2: black beans).
Note: this is just one of many creative ways to prepare enchiladas, at Mamacitas (see my Restaurant review: Slow food meets Mexican at Mamacitas they serve Enchiladas Rancheras filled with tri-tip, Oaxacan mole, leeks and goat cheese; as well as a vegetarian Enchilada Suiza filled with refried beans and grilled sweet corn-black bean salsa. Send me your favorite combination!
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