Exploring Mallorca's countryside, pt.3

    Just one of the peaceful gardens at C'an Verdera

Tired and sated, we took the taxi up the mountain to our hotel, C'an Verdera, discreetly hidden on the side of a steep cobblestoned hill in Fornalutx (pronounced Forn-a-looch.) The original features of this 150 year old home blend seamlessly with the chic , modern furnishings and striking works of art. We loved the attention to detail which was evident throughout the lush garden, the serene pool surrounded by colorful bougainvillea, and the rooftop terrace where we breakfasted while gazing at the lush mountains and valley.

Fornlutx, with it's ancient narrow streets, pristine central square and atmosphere of almost forgotten serenity is what people mean when they talk about the good old days. There are absolutely no must-see sights here, which is a major part of its charm.

Location Pluses:
A few steps away from the hotel, we stumbled across the Restaurant Santa Marta
where Carlos, the proud owner, recently passed the Paella baton to
his new bride. While Carlos kept filling our glasses with outrageously good sangria, his darling whipped up a seafood Paella for four that the two of us polished off without missing a beat. The complimentary after dinner drink, a chilled
local orange liquor, along with the starry night sky sealed an excellent deal.

The next morning, a half hour walk through the "Forest" (the local word for country path)
past the neighbors farms complete with "Beasts" (the local word for goats
and cows) led us into the neighboring town of Biniatrix. Blink and you'll miss the phone
booth and bar, which was the town center. We had fun stopping in for a beer before our return trip, while pretending to understand Spanish as the locals around us got
caught up on the news Strolling at midnight thru Fornalutx's town
square to watch children of all ages happily playing tag while their
parents had a nitecap was like a scene from “Our Town”.
 

Great tag team of Deia and Valldemossa :

The first half of the day we visited Deia, a scenic hamlet inhabited by writers, artists and the affluent. (Micheal Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones own a summer home here.) We walked 5 minutes out of town to visit poet/author Robert Graves’ home, for a self-guided tour that began with an interesting video about his life, incorporating BBC interviews and local footage. Don’t miss the abundant fruit and veggie garden, where I saw one woman absconding with a huge watermelon.

We saved the rest of the day for Valldemossa, a lively, picturesque town filled with stone houses bearing small ceramic plates saying: Beata, pray for us! (La Beata is the saint protecting the village.) The highlight here is a visit to the monastery where composer Frederic Chopin and writer George Sand carried on their controversial affair while residing in a former monk’s cell.
Stomachs growling, we asked a local girl for a good lunch spot. She led us down the cobbled street, through a dark courtyard, up a creepy old dusty stairway, then through a huge wooden door that opened into a bright airy dining room that smelled heavenly. We never saw the rooms at Hostel Ca'n Mario but I can certainly vouch for the traditional food served here. We feasted on a thick cabbage soup with lamb hearts and pork, cauliflower casserole, salad, crusty whole grain bread and local olives and wine for under $20.

* Tip: To book a room at Ca’n Verdera or another boutique property in the area, check out Reis De Mallorca’s listing of independent hotels.