Dijon and Burgundy: Great tasting vacation

Statue in town square of Mersault, on the wine trail south of Dijon.  © David S. White

By David Stewart White
Examiner.com
July 3, 2010

American visitors to France typically head for Paris, perhaps Normandie (Normandy) or the Loire Valley, sometimes Provence, and occasionally the Mediteranian coast.  But the provincial capital of Dijon unfortunately flies below the radar of many tourists.

Under two hours by fast train from Paris, Dijon is a beautiful small city in Bourgogne (Burgundy provence).  Dijon was once capital of the medieval Duchy of Burgundy and the city's historical importance boosted what would otherwise have been a run-of-the-mill provencial town.  Dijon remains a fascinating, walkable small city–almost a mini-Paris filled with historical sights, broad streets, parks, catherals,  and interesting architecture. 

But it is food (and wine) that brings many visitors to Dijon.  As the name implies, mustard and Dijon are nearly synonymous in France.  Truth be told, dijon mustard is largely made elsewhere and most of the basic ingredients are imported.  Don't make the mistake of asking a local "Pardon me, do you have any Grey Poupon." The traditional brand sold in the city is Maille–there is a shop downtown–but even that venerable mustard is made elsewhere by the Unilever conglomerate.

So the mustard may not be local, but the Dijon is still known for its fine food. The city abounds in good restaurants, many offering incredible dijionnaise cusine.  One example–Chez Léon at 20 Rue des Godrans.  Not quite a hole-in-the-wall, this cozy restaurant seemed to attract more locals than tourists. While they may be drawn by the restaurant's simple decor, friendly service and moderate prices, it's the tasty traditional food that makes the meal here. 

Dijon is not such a large city that it overflows with accommodation choices. The Tripadvisor.com website lists 64 Dijon hotels; its Paris listings include almost 1,900. Renting a central apartment is a good option in either city. My Home in Dijon is an aptly-named large studio apartment located on a quiet side street just steps away from the cafe-lined Place de la Liberation and near the Ducal Palace. The owner is a self-appointed Dijon tourism advocate who is more than willing to pick up guests at the railway station and provide an introductory tour of the city.

Dijon conveniently sits in the heart of one of France's premier wine producing regions. Vin de Bourgogne (Burgundy wine) includes some of the world's best known red wines–and some of the most pricey.  And while the top-of-the-line Grand Cru wines may have over-the-top prices, there are so many wines available that there is a Burgundy for every palate and wallet.  Vineyard and winery tours operate out of Dijon.

Related article:

• Art exhibit brings Dijon to America