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Crossing the Darien Gap by boat from Panama to Colombia: Day 4

Games can make a whole day at sea bearable.
Games can make a whole day at sea bearable.

This is the day I had been dreading – a full day on the open sea.  Shortly after breakfast, we pulled anchor for the last time and headed out.  Fortunately, the wind was with us and we hoped it wouldn’t be all that bad.

Within a few miles, we had left the sheltered area behind the coral reef and were in open waters.  I had been told time and time again that ginger was the key to avoiding seasickness, so I kept a steady supply of fresh ginger heading down the hatch to my stomach.  The ginger mostly worked – I was only mildly seasick and never did throw up, but did have to spend the entire day lying down on deck.

It took a few hours before we were out of sight of all land – it was just us and the Caribbean Sea.  Miles and miles of nothing but miles and miles of Caribbean Sea.

Most of us spent the entire day lying around, whereas a few passengers were able to sit up and talk and play cards.  Still, it was a long day for all of us, and we can’t wait until noon tomorrow when we finally get off this blasted boat!

*******

Read the rest of the series here:

A visit with Kuna Indians

Day 0 - Preparations

Day 1 - Getting to the San Blas Islands

Day 2 - A Day in Paradisa

Day 3 - Another Day in Paradise

Day 4 - Time to Face the Open Seas

Day 5 - Arrival in Cartagena

How to book a boat trip across the Darien Gap

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You can follow my family's adventures on our personal website www.familyonbikes.org or email me at familyonbikes@gmail.com

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Slideshow: Crossing the Darien Gap by boat from Panama to Colombia: Day 4

, Boise International Travel Examiner

Nancy Sathre-Vogel is a modern-day nomad and vagabond who travels the world in search of beads and other treasures. Her preferred mode of transportation is a bicycle, although she's been known to travel in car, bus, plane, boat, donkey cart, elephant, and camel. She is now pedaling the length...

Comments

  • Anonymous 1 year ago

    How to cross the Darien gap?
    Easy, cause there is mainly one way.
    If you are driving, you must ship your car, if you are backpacking you can fly or sail.

    To ship your vehicle there are two ways, ro-ro, means roll on roll of, aka without a container ( we don't know much about this one but I am sure it is similar procedures) or put your vehicle in a 20 ft or 40ft container. We put ours in a 20 ft container, you can do solo about U$1300 or you can try to find a partner and share it, still the cost is about U$1100.
    You can ship it to Cartagena, Colombia or Guayaquil, Ecuador, the cost is about the same, Colombia is a bit cheaper since it is a lot more common.

    We used a lady called Tea Kalmbach, she is reliable and she knows what she is doing. To be honest is the best of the worse. That's the real truth, but she is good and honest, she will tell you things as they are. Truth is, it is time consuming and lots of paperwork, but it is easy if you contact her, she will walk you thru the whole process. You need 2 days to ship and at least 2 days to get it back, No way to do it in less time, we tried!!
    Her email is

    Be careful with the companies that seem cheaper, make sure that what you are being charged includes unloading charges as well, we heard of several companies charging $700/$800 but then you need to pay another $500/$600 at port to unload your car. When we did it with her, we paid her $1275 and then just another $100 in paperwork and stamps in Cartagena.

    What about you?
    Well, you cant get on the boat with your car, so there are 2 options.
    You can Fly from Panama ( I think Tea also helps people get good rates, ask her)
    or...
    You can have the experience of your lifetime and book yourself and your fellow traveler on a Sailboat to Cartagena.
    The trip goes as follows...
    You go from Panama City on a 4x4 to Carti, once you get there ( 3 hours) you get on the boat and start your amazing journey through the San Blas, or Kuna islands for 3/4 days. Then you sail for aprox 36 hours in open water and you get to Cartagena!! ( bring Dramamine or Stugeron) Pretty amazing and honestly the experience of your lifetime!! (check our pics)

    We used a company called Sailing Koala www.sailingkoala.com

    Fabian is a great captain, he knows a lot about sailing and has been doing this for over 12 years. Also he will wait for you at the shore in Carti, so you save some $$, the Kunas will charge you for everything they can!!
    We had a great time, ate great food and were so lucky that we were only 5 passengers. Usually they are 8+ and also the crew. Make sure you know how many people will be traveling on the boat and how are the sleeping arrangements, Fabian gives everybody a room. He has a 42 ft Catamaran, with 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, even though they usually use one or two, basically to save water.
    If you are a couple you most definitely will have your suite.
    The food is good, not great, I should say it is not their forte but they try hard and you will be eating Lobster, Crab and Fish mostly every day. You just have to ask. Also if you can cook they will let you try cooking, just bare in mind it is not that easy to cook on a boat!
    email: fabian@sailingkoala.com

    This are some tips I copied from a reliable website.

    Most of the boats right now are going to Cartagena. The prices are all per person and include all meals and non-alcoholic beverages and usually all immigration fees. With most boats we advise you take your alcohol and snacks with you when you leave Panama City.

    Most of the boats are leaving from Carti in the San Blas islands and therefore involve an additional $40 in travel fees to reach Carti where the boat leaves from. This includes $25 for a jeep to Carti, around $5 for a launcher to the ship and around $8 in Kuna taxes. Be aware there are no cash machines in Carti so all money must be withdrawn in Panama City.

    Some boats go to Sapzurro which means a trip all along the coast and more island time usually, without the long open sea crossing to Cartagena. From Sapzurro you will take as couple of launchers to Turbo and then a bus either to Cartagena or another destination, this costs approx $70, and about 20 hours.

    A few boats leave from either Portobello or Puerto Lindo in Colon, which are reachable by bus for $5-10. From here it almost a days sailing to the San Blas islands which is why many Captains have decided to leave from Carti as to give people more time in the islands.

    The trips range from $375-$500 depending on the quality and duration.

    You can contact Stuart at Mamallena Hostel in Panama City and they will give you all the info. They really know a lot.

    Hostel Mamallena
    Panama City and Boquete, Panama
    www.mamallena.com
    Casa 7-62 Calle Primera, Perejil
    Phone:(507)6676 6163 cell

    You can definitely do this trip from Cartagena to Panama City, just reverse the order!!! In Cartagena you can contact
    LUNA CASTLE HOSTEL
    www.lunacastlehostel.com

    if anything let us know

    www.NYtoBA.com
    Across the Americas by Land
    Cruzando las AMericas por Tierra

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