Coastal Croatia is a sensual nirvana. From sights and scents to culinary delights, our palates were tickled with pleasure as much as our noses and eyes. Fresh fish served whole to indicate its freshness, sauteed in olive oil and homegrown spices such as rosemary and thyme, was an inviting nightly dinner option. John Dory, sea bass, bream, grouper and scorpionfish were among the choices of freshly-caught fish, but tasty fried sardines had their allegiants. Octopus salad, tuna atop greens, and clams and mussels in broth paired with homemade wine and brandy also caught our attention
Desserts ranged from egg-y carmel flan to a whipped vanilla meringue to a creamy white cake with figs, almonds and pistachios for a surprising light crunch. Fresh cheeses made locally and fruit such as tangerines, apples and figs were other tantalizing options. If we were going to eat our way through Croatia, we had to pedal to earn it. The converse was also true: if we were going to successfully pedal our way throughout these gorgeous, hilly islands, we were going to have to fuel our engines, and what a pleasant burden that was.
Our group of 15 cyclists of all ability levels came together for our nine-day adventure through a Vermont-based retired ophthalmologist and his significant other, a chocolatier. The couple is a former neighbor and long-time friends with the owner of Vermont Bicycle Tours (VBT), Greg Marston.
Our VBT Croatian itinerary was created for our group in the shoulder season and planned well in advance. The usual concerns of health, safety and work schedules, over time, dwindled those interested to our committed group of 15. A lack of prima donnas and cattiness enveloped our experience in sheer joy, abundant caring and loving support of both differences and common bonds. In the end, most acknowledged, the experience was among the best in our lives, which is saying a lot given the travel-savvy members of our group.
We could hardly pedal 100 feet without having to stop our rented hybrid bikes to take another photograph. Vineyards sloping gently to the crystal clear aqua waters of the Adriatic Sea nearly took our breath away, but breathing was not to be parried with as we huffed and puffed over the challenging hills of the Dalmatian Islands of Croatia. Around every bend was another scenic view. The scent of lavender, harvested in summer, and handmade into sachets, soaps and essential oils hung in the air, a welcoming, calming perfume as we enjoyed Croatia’s unspoiled beauty.
Not every ride was hilly. A few paved seaside roads among small and medium-sized villages blessed with an adorned cathedral, smaller churches or once-imposing castles easily attracted us with their quaintness and alluring mazes of narrow streets simply awaiting relaxed exploration and discovery.
Once in a while, the melodic vibrations of an organist practicing next week’s hymns or a school choir singing “Swing low, sweet chariot” in English in a 15th century church carried us to heavenly realms via our sense of sound as we paused to enjoy the perfection of the moment. Croatia was mesmerizing us.
From time to time, bicyclists were as abundant as the vehicles or goats on the road. From small groups of twos and threes enjoying an independent or group tours to a mellow paceline of 10 or more, it was evident that cycling was the ideal way to see Croatia. The mostly smooth roads, typically respectful and scarce drivers and our desire to stop and smell the lavender -- versus a head-down rush to the finish – allowed us to soak in the perfect temperature and sunny days, and smells and sights along the way. Of course, having to stop and photograph the ever-beckoning scenery was usually easy atop our two-wheeled transportation.
We began our Croatian adventure in Split, which will be covered in part 2 of my series. Kindly "subscribe" via the above button if you'd like to be informed about my future Croatian travel postings.
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