Critic’s Notebook: Passover prep, free dessert, goat penis for dinner (Photos)

The festival of Passover begins in 5 days. If you have not yet done your shopping, think Italian. Think Dean & Deluca (OK, half Italian), which has everything for your seder table from soup to nuts (the nuts are in the haroset, $12.50 a pound). The full menu, which is here, is available from March 23 to the 26th. This year, D & D is also offering Matzel Toff (read: Streit's matzah topped with buttery toffee and enrobed in rich, creamy chocolate — strictly kosher and strictly sinful).

Speaking of sinful, bread and other grain products are forbidden during the eight days of Passover. But Chef Jeff Nathan of Abigael’s has come up with a nifty workaround with his seasoned and plain panko flakes. According to a promotional email the crumbs are “great as a breading, crisp & crunchy topping,
stuffing, and in many of your holiday recipes!” but are they kosher (in both sense of the word)? Is the pope Catholic?

Free Dessert

That’s a noun phrase, not an imperative. It is there to signify another holiday, Afghani New Year, which falls tomorrow, Thursday, March 21st. To commemorate new beginnings, the Afghan restaurant Khyber Pass in the East Village is giving free custard and baklava to all customers.

A Meal of Goat Penis

What would Passover be without the tradition roasted goat penis gracing the seder plate? Oh, wait a minute, that’s a lamb shank bone. I’ve got my stories crossed. The goat phallus is on the menu at The Explorers Club, which is holding its109th Annual Dinner.

The meal will be comprised of all manner of exotica from the mildly curious (ostrich, muskrat, beaver) to the wildly curious (candied scorpions, sweet pickled chili eyeballs [whose they don’t specify], and the aforementioned goat member “worked into a lovely rice dish”).

If you'd like in on the action, you can try contacting the club at 212-628-8383 or through their website. A word of caution, however: If you have to inquire about the price of the event, you can’t afford it. A lunch tour of the club is currently being auctioned at Charity Buzz. The current bid is $950.

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, NY Restaurant Examiner

Howard Portnoy is formerly food editor of the East Side Express, Westsider, Chelsea-Clinton News, Battery News, and Brooklyn Paper. In his 17 years in that position, he wrote weekly restaurant review columns and food and recipe features. His other published works include a novel (Hot Rain, G. P....

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