Copenhagen’s Jægersborggade Street might well be the Rodeo Drive of gastronomy. Various alumni of Noma (once again at the top of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list) have opened restaurants on this picturesque street in Norrebro, including Chef Christian Puglisi, one of The Wall Street Journal’s “Top Ten Chefs.”
Formerly affiliated with both elBulli and Noma, Puglisi has two acclaimed restaurants on Jægersborggade. After a stint as a take-away joint with limited seating, Manfreds & Vin opened late in 2011 with a dining room behind the self-service counter.
Deliberately furnished like an unfinished industrial loft, complete with plywood bar and concrete walls, Manfreds attracts a hipster crowd of foodies that, on certain nights, resembles a fashion shoot in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Lanky and lean waiters are equally cool – and extremely enthusiastic about what Manfreds produces for the table.
Biodynamic produce is complemented by biodynamic wines, which are perfectly paired, thanks to a knowledgeable waitstaff, all of whom serve the food and spirits with a kind of laidback bonhomie. Small plates of supremely fresh produce of impeccable quality are served when they are prepared – rather than adhering to a dining protocol of starter, entree, and dessert.
The resultant meal is a kind of family style meal – that is, if your family included a well-known celebrated chef. Vegetables (with biodynamic herbs) are the stars here, including kohlrabi spaghetti – and everything is reasonably priced, and particularly for fine dining.
With Manfreds, Puglisi is throwing down the gastronomic gauntlet to show that world-class cuisine can be available to all – and after a meal at Manfreds, you’ll wonder why all haute establishments don’t have the same sense of joie de vivre and relaxation. Manfreds makes fine dining fun.