Cooking with Water

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The leaves will soon be turning and the weather will eventually cool down and put you in the mood for some good old fashioned soup. Why talk about this now, because it's hot, and heat makes us tired and lazy, not at all in the mood to stir a hot pot. Few restaurants around the Raleigh/Durham area serve great seasonal soups so here are a few tricks of the trade that will help you develop your own signature stocks, the foundation for great soup.

An extensive search of heirloom cookbooks, revealed a number of reasons food is sometimes tasteless or bland. Cooking with water yields flavorless food. Let's face it broth and stock rule.

Water:

A generic liquid that exist in every food source; and has no taste. The issue with water is that it is like a chameleon of sorts, it takes on the flavor of the dominate host. Unfortunately, if the dominate host is flavorless, well, you know the rest.

Broth:

Chicken broth is a combination of the meat from the chicken combined with salted water and vegetables, usually boiled. The flavor is not as rich as stock and can be down right bland. Most of the canned broths that you find in grocery stores are not rich in flavor and are heavily salted; although there are some low sodium brands now available.

Stock:

Chicken and beef stock, good old fashioned stock is made from bones, marrow and cartilage. These three items contain collagen, the main ingredient in gelatin. Richly flavored homemade chicken gravy that has been refrigerated forms a gelatinous “gel” over the top of the gravy, this does not usually occur with chicken broth, so you will always know when a cook uses stock or broth.

Why make your stock from scratch? You will never get the taste or intense flavor from a canned product. A stock is made by sautéing the bones of the caucus (i.e. beef bones, chicken necks, backs etc) in your favorite oil with onions, celery and garlic; browning everything in the pot. The smell will make you crazy, then just when the caramel color has peaked, add your water and bring to a rolling boil; reduce the temperature, skim the foam and place it on a medium low simmer for at least 4-8 hours. This is the process, not the recipe.

Why cook the stock so long? The collagen in the bones will moisten and melt into the water, bringing out the true “essence” of flavor. You will never, ever be able to get this divine flavor in a can. Many seasoned cooks do not salt their stock, but leave that  process for later when creating the actual dish.

There are two types of stock, simple and rich. A simple stock is used in soups, stews, and dishes that call for you to simmer food slowly. A rich stock is used when a sauce requires lots of flavor, and a small amount of liquid.

Below is a favorite recipe for a simple stock which yields about one quart of liquid.

2 ½ quarts cold water

2 onions, quartered, plus skins

1 large clove garlic, peeled and quartered

2 ribs celery, with leaves, washed and cut into four pieces

Stock can be made with bones and any excess meat or poultry (excluding livers and gizzards which will make your stock bitter), or shells or carcasses from seafood, used in the recipe you’re preparing.

You may also use the following amounts:

For Poultry Stocks:

2 pounds backs, necks, and/or bones from chicken, ducks, or geese

For Beef Stocks:

2 pounds beef shanks or other beef bones

For Pork Stock:

2 pounds pork neck bones or other pork bones (not smoked)

For Seafood Stock:

2 pounds rinsed shrimp heads if you can find them or shells and 1/2-1 pound of dried shrimp (found at most Asian Markets) or crawfish heads or crab shells. You can also use the carcasses of a fish or fish heads if you can find them.

One excellent way to make a stock is to sauté the bones, meat, vegetables in a large stock pot until brown and caramelized. Then add cold water, enough to cover all the ingredients in the pot. Bring everything to a boil over high heat, then gently simmer at least 4 hours, preferably 6 to 8 if possible, replenishing the water as needed to maintain 1 quart of liquid in the stock pot. Remember to skim off any foam. Partially cover the pot with the lid while it simmers. When the stock is finished, strain and cool and store in plastic containers with lids in the freezer until needed. Cooking your stock for 30-45 minutes is better than using plain water, some flavor is better than none at all.

If you want to make a richer stock, do not add any more water and allow your stock to simmer and reduce down to 1 pint (16-ounces) this stock will have an intense flavor.

Below is a favorite family recipe for Creole Smoked Sausage Sauce. It yields about 3 cups of sauce and can be used in a pinch to dress up a meal. Use this sauce over scrambled eggs, omelets, rice, and mashed potatoes, chicken livers, fried fish, take your pick and let your imagination run wild.

Creole Smoked Sauce

Yield: 3 cups

Ingredients

4 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons canola oil

1 cup smoked pork sausage, diced (substitute beef or turkey)

1 cup onions, chopped fine

1 cup celery, chopped fine

½ cup sweet bell pepper, chopped fine

2 teaspoons garlic, minced

1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes (use fresh if in season)

1 1/2 cup chicken stock

1 tablespoon carrot, minced fine*

1/2 tablespoon hot sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

½ teaspoon ground thyme

½ teaspoon dried basil leaves

½-1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes (if you like your sauce hot add 1 teaspoon)

½ teaspoon black pepper

Directions

Melt the butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

• Stir in the onions, celery, bell peppers, bay leaf; then add the garlic and all the other seasonings; stir thoroughly.
• Sauté until the onions begin to turn brown about 7 minutes.
• Stir in the sausage and sauté for another 3-4 minutes.
•  Add the can of diced tomatoes, hot sauce and the tablespoon of minced carrot.
•  Stir and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes.

*Some tomato sauce recipes call for sugar; I use carrot that is finely minced. It works just as well if not better taking the bitter edge off any tomato based sauced.

**If you do not want to use sausage you may substitute one large peeled, diced eggplant. The sauce takes on a whole new meaning and the flavor is divine.