Pan-American Highway (Ruta 25) south through Córdoba and Antioquia Departments
Less than half-day’s drive south of Cartagena, we meet our first police check point. We were totally ready for the worse but to our surprise, a friendly young man greeted us. He was quite curious about us and wanted to know if everything was o.k.
Our first night on the road we stopped at a small roadside hotel in Sahagún, Córdoba Department. A new Colombian friend guided us to a great local eatery for dinner. Next morning before heading out of town we stopped for coffee. Coffee (commonly called tinto) in Colombia is often served in small platic cups. In any case it sure was not Juan Valdez coffee.
Next night, we stopped at another roadside hotel in a small town of Alto de Ventanas, located between Yarumal and Santa Rosa de Osos, Antioquia Department. In the morning the hotel manager served us a sweet flavored infusion. We had breakfast, next door at a restaurant/bus stop. After breakfast we drove south towards Medellin (Antioquia Department), the second largest city in Colombia. We stopped for the night just south of Medellin, at a small town called Caldas. We camped at the Ecological Reserve Rio Medellin where we had a great time meeting and hanging out with the locals. That night we had a campfire while we enjoyed great Argentine wine.
After leaving Medellin we drove towards Manizales, an area well known for its coffee plantations. We stopped for lunch in a beautiful river area and later drove through a cloud forest. Later still on Ruta 25, we stopped on a hill overlooking Barbosa where we bought some homemade candy. After a very long day's drive we reached Chinchiná , Caldas Department (17 kilometers SW of Manizales). We stayed at Hosteria de Café for two nights. While in Chinchiná we took time out to visit the town and restock our food and wine supplies. Hosteria de Café owners gave us a tour of their coffee plantation and historic family home.
Continuing Southwards: Salento, Quindío Department towards Ipiales, Nariño Department
After a relaxing stay in Chinchiná we drove to Salento, Quindío Department. This area is also well known for its coffee plantations. We stayed at Hotel Mis Bohios (see video). Yes, they had Internet. In Salento we shopped for groceries, chatted with Salento Plaza vendors.
From Salento we went to Bosque Cocora national park campground for three nights. There we saw Wax Palms, Colombia’s national tree. While at Bosque Cocora we took a horse trip into the mountains. The route was challenging because we had to travel up a rocky canyon to the mountaintop. We were served hot chocolate at the top where we took a break. We came back an easier route. While at Bosque Cocora we saw some beautiful birds such as, Sparkling Violetear, Buffed Puffleg and Mountain Motmot.
From Bosque Cocora we continued south to Popayán, Cauca Department where we stayed at Hotel Colonial. After a restful night and breakfast we were back on the road heading south towards Pasto, Nariño Department. Popayan is a beautiful colonial town and we regret not staying longer. Our journey from Popayán to Pasto was through some spectacular scenery.
Once we reached Pasto we took a 30-kilometer side trip east to Laguna de la Cocha, at an elevation of 3260 meters. We finally located pet friendly cabin accommodations at Chalet Guamuez. After two restful days we drove back to Pasto.
Colombia/Ecuador border crossing
From Pasto it was onto to Ipiales/Tulcán where we crossed into Ecuador. We drove 1131 miles in Colombia. Colombian foodis quite interesting and good; from Cartagena to Ipiales we were able to get good vegetarian food. We totally enjoyed Colombia. We were pleasantly surprised by the friendliness of the police and the military. The beautiful cities, the expansive landscape, the food and the wonderful people equally impressed us, as we drove south on the Pan-American Highway.
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