COOS BAY, Oregon – Serving American genetically engineered fish – nicknamed “frankenfish” – is “a protest that won’t go away,” says local fisherman Pete Arrera, who’s leading a self-proclaimed “revolt against marketing salmon and other fish that were born in test-tubes.” Arrera and other West coast fishermen are spreading the word via signs in local food shops and restaurants that ask consumers “what’s for dinner tonight? And, if it’s fish, what kind of fish are you eating?"
Here in Eugene there's also concern that local seafood should be fresh and not from as far away as Alaska. Still, go to any market or restaurant in the greater Eugene region and more often than not it's not fresh Oregon fish that's being offered.
Frankenfish should not be on the menu say fishermen to FDA
In the wake of the Food and Drug Administration’s recent meetings up in Portland on whether to approve the marketing of genetically engineered “frankenfish,” the verdict from both salmon producers and the public is “no way” due to both possible health concerns and that genetically messing with nature could harm or destroy the Pacific Northwest’s wild salmon population.
Oregon fisherman Pete Arrera and others seem more than perplexed by science getting involved with “what should be natural in the Pacific Ocean. You look out at that big, wide ocean and wonder how it should be with fish being caught as they have been for centuries. We wonder why has it comes to this strange time in our history when scientists and not fishermen are deciding what to sell at the markets,” explains Arrera cutting freshly caught Coho salmon with the skilled, patient hand of a craftsman.
Moreover, another fisherman here in Coos Bay plants an elbow on his upper knee, rests his chin on his cupped hands. “Look here, this is freshly caught fish from the Pacific. Why mess with that,” the fisherman asks.
Recession plays role in frankenfish controversy
At a time when Oregon’s economy is so weak that double digit unemployment has become the norm, any move to harm the state’s revenue steam that’s tied to wild salmon and other fish production is “not a risk that we can take,” says Oregon fisherman Domenico Castle who, at the age of 68, still works on the salmon boats.
“You have to understand this is a ‘Salmon Nation’ out here, and messing with Mother Nature with these so-called frankenfish is stupid. I see what we’re catching and it’s bad enough that our fortunes are not good. So why the heck would we risk harming our salmon? I don’t trust these scientists who say it’s safe,” explains Castle with a deep sense of chagrin.
The FDA study – that’s been debated at Portland State University and other think thanks around Portland over the past few weeks – asks if genetically engineered fish is safe. The FDA thinks it is, and points to the salmon that numerous companies have already produced as being more than double the size of Chinook or Coho salmon that’s common in Oregon waters.
At issue is a natural resource for Oregon that generates more than $25 billion in revenue.
“It’s not just salmon, but fishing in Oregon and the Pacific Northwest that’s on the line,” says Portland State University student Bud Handlay who’s hoping to become a fish biologist. “Messing with our natural resources such as the regional salmon population is simply not on at a time when people are looking for organic and natural food products. Also, the state’s revenue is not just tied to the seafood we sell but also sport fishing. Who wants to fish for something out of an FDA lab.”
For example, Handlay points to the Chinook, or King Salmon, as the largest of the Pacific species of salmon that the FDA is reviewing for possible frankenfish production. “The FDA has several of these frankenfish commercial labs that want to add growth hormones to parts of Oregon’s wild salmon population. The idea is to produce larger fish and, in turn, more revenue to those who sell or market these frankenfish.”
While the FDA says there’s no health concerns from genetically engineered salmon, Oregon fisherman Domenico Castle says his customers won’t buy that.
“There is a difference. First, there’s food safety. Then, there’s an impact on our natural environment. I don’t want my kids to eat frankenfish when I can give them a nice Chinook for dinner. And, I don’t want these frankenfish mixing with my wild salmon. The FDA tells us they will grow faster than normal fish. How will that impact our environment,” says Domenico who has a permit to sell his fresh salmon, tuna and other fish directly to the public from his boat.
“I won’t do it,” he adds. “I won’t sell my customers any frankenfish.”
Fish suppliers nationwide opting for foreign fish over local fresh sources
The next time you order a seafood dish along the central Oregon or in a restaurant, thank the fishing industry up in Alaska “because that’s where the fish we serve comes from,” says Frank Hamada who works as a waiter here in Yachats.
“Because of this frankenfish mess, businesses are opting for more Alaska or foreign produced fish
While the local Alaska fish truck is a common site up and down the central Oregon coast, and in and around Eugene, there’s often no real “connection that this truck is delivering Alaska seafood products,” Hamada explains.
“It’s crazy but for whatever reasons, we’re serving up Alaska seafood in Oregon area restaurants. In fact, one would be hard pressed to find any reference to freshly caught Oregon fish in our restaurants. This is because it’s all Alaska or foreign fish,” this waiter adds.
In fact, go to any food outlet in the Eugene area and the salmon is mostly “freshly caught Alaskan.”
As to why coastal restaurants are serving Alaska fish over Oregon seafood, “it’s political,” claims Mary Halsey Bradford who’s worked as a Yachats based waitress for the past 15 years.
“What I’ve heard from the owners is the Oregon fish is too expensive, so they buy the stuff from Alaska. If you go to Newport and watch them process the fish, it’s all for overseas markets,” Halsey Bradford explains.
As to who’s trying to sorting why Oregon seafood is not selling in local Eugene area restaurants, there’s government grant funds being spent to study this strange situation.
Why locally caught fish is not selling
Oregon State University’s “Sustainable Rural Communities Initiative,” is a federal government sponsored study that’s looking at the “sociological profiles” of central Oregon coast fishing communities such as Newport to see why local fish is selling or not selling.
“This initiative is much more complicated than just the price of fish. It’s more about how Oregon coast fishing communities can remain sustainable. Given this poor economy, it’s a very important study,” says Cole Upton, a former OSU biological student who’s now working in Salem.
Upton states that what we do know from this OSU study is the fishing industry in Oregon employs more than four thousand people, and earns more than $100 million in seafood revenue. “What we don’t know is how much of Oregon fish is being sold in Oregon, as compared to other states and countries,” he adds.
While Upton says Oregon seafood products still sell here along the central Oregon coast and in the Eugene area, there’s nothing that says one’s eating fresh Oregon fish as compared to Alaska seafood.
“We have the smaller restaurants selling freshly caught Oregon fish, but who knows and who cares as long as the price is low. Customers will pay for cheaper seafood and not really care if it’s from Alaska. Some even pretend it’s freshly caught from Oregon waters. It’s very strange, but sadly true,” he adds.
In addition, a Portland State University “capstone project” – that explores connections between economical and ecological systems – points to America’s top fish source as foreign.
Know where your fish comes from, say experts
Steven Drullinger, a Portland State University researcher, thinks anyone who eats seafood or even sushi on a regular basis “should know where the fish comes from.”
“There’s this big sushi chain down in L.A. that gets its fish from fish farms in Korea and Japan. Why they’re buying foreign fish -- that’s certainly not fresh given the great distance of the fish source – is tied to economics. Few suppliers in America today can claim to have U.S. produced fish for the American market. And, add in modified lab fish experiments to create these frankenfish that may be coming on to market, and we have a fish industry that’s as screwy as the U.S. beef industry,” says Dullinger.
Go to any popular seafood restaurant or market in America and the seafood is mostly from some remote fishing village in South America, Mexico, the Philippines, China or even Australia.
“Sadly, American consumers – especially during this weak economy – are looking at price over where the seafood is coming from. They don’t really care as long as it’s cheap. And that’s a very sad point of view for seafood sources in our country today,” he says.
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