“Style is a simple way of saying complicated things”. Jean Cocteau.
"Whatever the public blames you for, cultivate it; it is yourself". Jean Cocteau
Paul Poiret & Jean Cocteau, two of the most stylish personas of the 20th century.
Paul Poiret is considered the Godfather of modern fashion. Jean Cocteau is the Godfather of French avant-garde style. Paul Poiret revived the Neo-classical French Directory fashion in 1909.
See my previous article on Neo-grec revivalist fashion during the French Directory.
Paul Poiret's 1909 collection caused a sensation, just as it did over 100 years before. His gowns paid homage to the neo-classical tastes of the French Directory 1795-1799, with dresses that were inspired by the robes of ancient Greece. The clothes followed the bodies curves in flimsy fabrics, such as tulle and muslin. Adding to the outre appearance, they wore furs, and exotic shawls and turbins, and decorative feather ornaments.
Paul Poiret's 1909 collection introduced his "Hellenic" gowns, that draped the body like tunics. The following year, he offered his own take on the Directory look with high waists and straight skirts, though in a bow to early 20th century modernism, he incorporated veiled bodices, with heavier transparent materials. The Bourgeoisie were at this point, unstoppable as a moralizing force, and the Victorian ethics prevented the Bacchanalia/nudity aspect of the original clothing. Quelle Domage.
pic by: flickr.com. Paul Poiret dress. 1912
His name is Jean Cocteau, the most brilliant artist, poet, filmmaker, of the 20th century. He's the most complete artist the world has seen since the Renaissance. His movies are legendary, his poetry, visionary, his style was prophetic and mesmerizing. A leader of the avant-garde in paris in the 20's he advanced Surrealism. He is a God.
Elsa Schiaparelli the famed avant-garde Fashion designer of the '20s once reproduced a drawing by Cocteau on an evening cape in embroidery. Paul Poiret and Jean Cocteau moved in the same circles. Paul Poiret designed outfits for Jean Cocteau, and his Surrealist tableau of friends...:"Dressed in a skirted uniform designed for him by the great couturier Paul Poiret", he(Jean Cocteau) snapped away with huge enjoyment whenever the Senegalese soldiers in his unit took showers". Jean Cocteau was an experimental photographer as well, and his cinematography in his later films are a testament to this.
Jean Cocteau's "The Blood of the Poet film below, was financed by Charles, Vicomte de Noailles. The set designs and the clothes for this movie were made by Jean Cocteau. Everything in this film, and his later films, was pure Art, on a level that doesn't exist anymore.The clothes in this film, were the inspiration for Julia Jentzch's Fall 2008 collection. Jean Cocteau was a true innovator, in multi-mediums. "Style is the man". That man was Jean Cocteau. Jean Cocteau's sense of style, and design were admired by his peers. Elsa Schiaparelli, and Coco Chanel, and other fashion leaders of the day tried to persuade him to design clothes for them. He declined. No I am too fabulous for this world. He was too good for them. He is too good for contemporary society. Coco Chanel, is a legend now, but, she and others worshipped Jean Cocteau, and thought they were not worthy of his genius. It is important to understand that up until the end of French modernism in 1925, Fashion was an art equal to music, and painting. Artists like Jean Cocteau were also Fashion designers. The arts weren't separated like they are now.
pic by: www.flickr.com Paul Poiret dress. 1918
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