Chicago's St. Martaen makes artisan vegan cheese

Ste Martaen Olive and Pepper Jack cheeses

One of the main hangups we who have been dairy-free for a while hear from aspiring vegans is that they would consider making the move themselves if cheese weren't so darn tasty. Our love of cheese is not without a reason: it is known to have an opiate effect, which heightens its addictive qualities. Cheese, however, also brings with it a whole host of problems, from health considerations (like clogged arteries) to ethical ones, like the fact that supporting the dairy trade contributes to the exploitation of cows and reinforces the despicable veal industry. Add to all that the fact that animal agriculture is devastating to our planet, and it's a good idea from health, compassion and environmentalist perspectives to leave dairy cheese behind.

So where does this leave people who know all the facts but still crave the dairy? Years ago, there were only a few plastic-tasting, unnatural options for vegan cheese analogues and most tasted unenticingly, well, analogue-ish. These days, however, thanks to the commitment of talented food scientists and chefs, there is a growing market of palatable vegan alternatives to dairy cheese. Today's column is on the delicious, locally crafted, artisan and utterly udder-free cheese produced by the Chicago-based mom-and-pop business, Ste Martaen.

In addition to being dairy-free, Ste Martaen (pronounced as the French version of St. Martin: Sahn Martahn) is soy- and gluten-free as well as free of additional oils and emulsifiers, making the cheese lower in saturated fats. What does this mean terms of flavor and texture? If you have been so lucky as to have one of their grilled cheese sandwiches, you wouldn't have to ask. Unlike many faux-cheeses, Ste Martaen's  cashew-based cheeses don't have a long list of strange ingredients. Further, it is simply fabulous stuff: rich, flavorful and not missing one iota of great taste.

Ste Martaen cheese is available in Colby, Smoked Gouda, Pepper Jack, Muenster and Olive; thus far, Ste Martaen can be ordered online or enjoyed grilled in a sandwich at Chicago's adorable (and exclusively vegetarian, nearly all-vegan) Delicious Café, 3827 N. Lincoln.  Ste Martaen is growing slowly and methodically, according to co-owner Laviyah St. Martin, to create exactly the sort of brand they can feel good about. They have big plans for the future with their gourmet vegan cheese but they want to build it at a smart pace.

Nahum and Laviyah St. Martin are a vegan family (raising five children together!); Nathum is the cheese maker and recipe crafter; Laviyah is the technical brains, providing the website, graphic design and photography. Together, they're a fully realized dream team. They've been vegan for a combined 27 years. Laviyah says that while she respects each person's unique journey toward embracing veganism. the commitment was easy and natural for their family.

"For us," Laviyah says, "this is a lifelong commitment and it would never occur to myself or my husband to ingest dead animals, period.  Personally I feel that there is a certain purity in eating a vegan diet because for the most part we are consuming substances that yield themselves to us.  When a mango wants you to eat it, it becomes plump and juicy and fragrant sending you the signal that it is ready to eat.  What animal will yield itself to you willingly?"

They are encouraged as conscientious entrepreneurs as well, finding that the market for vegan goods is not as saturated as they previously guessed.

"Chicago has so much opportunity," Laviyah says. "People are really open to what you put forth, vegans and non-vegans alike."

Want a chance to sample Ste Martaen's selection of fabulous vegan cheeses soon? Come to Chicago VeganMania this Saturday where they will be selling at the booth they're sharing with Delicious Cafe.

For more information: Visit the Ste Martaen website or email info@stemartaen.com.