What's exciting about fashion is watching a designer's ideas unfurl on the runway. Being able to see an idea take shape and unfold outfit by outfit. On Monday at Lincoln Center, Carlos Miele unspooled a ribbon of narrative that took us from snowy winter to tropical paradise.
The show opened with a stunning white fox fur cape over an off white silk blouse paired with crepe trousers. The models head was covered by a cowl, which at first seemed heavy and dated, but then made sense. As more models were revealed, the fur melted away and by the end of the show it was all bright colors perfect for days in a sunny resort. Mr. Miele basically took us from winter to summer in 10 minutes.
The 70's influence ran toward one shoulder tops (loose and in velvet), flowing silk pajama pants, and jumpsuits. There was a wonderful freedom in the flowy chiffon dresses that swirled as the models walked. Mr. Miele mixed things up by pairing striped tops in paprika and fuschia with printed skirts in similar colors. Fur capes were sometimes thrown on, in a sort of 'running to the airport' kind of way. It was very casual, yet pulled together. An easy look to translate into streetwear.
For night there were bias cut gowns that hugged the body and were embellished with silk inserts and braided details. Heeled sandals were worn throughout. A standout was a black and white dress with macrame overlay, worn with a black fur vest and black belt. Sumptuous. A chiffon top with slit sleeves floated over a billowing gold skirt in one of the seasons hottest color combos: get set for gold and black to take over next fall.
Makeup (by Gato Zamora for Maybelline New York) was kept light, and hair (by Rodney Cutler for the unbiquitous Cutler Salon) was scraped back into ponytails . But the tails were a bit loose, not strict, and banded at the bottom. It was a tad young for the collection shown, but overall the presentation had a character and style that was in keeping with Mr. Miele's previous collections.
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