Cajun cafe: Louisiana cuisine and craft beer

The sign says it all.

It happens from time to time that a journalist goes into an interview expecting one thing, and finding something else entirely. And other times, the “interview” goes out the door and you find yourself just having a great conversation over great food and great beer. My visit to the Cajun Café in Pinellas Park, Florida was one of these times.

Now, I am sure many readers are wondering just what exactly a Cajun Café in Florida has to do with Craft Beer. Well in this case the answer is simple: everything. You see Paul Unwin (owner and my host for the evening) is a craft beer lover. Not only is he a fan of the brews we love, but he is an advocate. But I am getting a bit ahead of myself.

When you approach the Cajun Café from the East on Park Boulevard, it would be easy to zoom right by and miss it. You have to watch for the small sign on the road, but easier to spot is the huge “Louisiana Cuisine & Craft Ale” billboard nestled among the mangroves a few yards back. The restaurant itself looks small from the front, but that first impression belies not only the space, but the experience inside. Decked out in Mardi Gras themed colors and baubles – as well as more than a few craft beer signs – the inside of the Café explodes with vibrant hues and energy. Paul met me with a grin and a handshake, and I knew right away this was going to be no ordinary interview.

The small size from the front is deceiving

“I hope you are hungry,” he said, his Bristol accent smooth and friendly.  “I have something special for you.”  We sat in a corner booth and he got us some menus: one for the food and one for the beer.  The food is mostly traditional Louisiana Cajun style; crawfish, shrimp, gumbo, and so on.  They smoke their own pork as well as make their own sauces, and everything on the menu sounds delicious.  But impressive as it was, the dinner menu paled next to the beauty and artistry of the beer menu.

Complete with pictures, Paul and his wife Rebecca has compiled pages and pages of craft beer after craft beer from all over the world.  Not content to just list them all, they have gathered actual images – or taken the pictures themselves – over every beer they offer, as well as a full description of each.  And the list is not small.  With fourteen on draft (plus Bud Lite) and seemingly countless in bottles, it was almost too much to try to choose from.  Paul chose for us.  “Let’s start with the Denver Pale Ale (Great Divide),” he said.  “It’s just a really nice ale that won’t get you ripped right off the bat.”  Hard to argue with that.  And as it happens, he is the only one in the area that has it.

Comfy and festive.

My first taste of the cuisine was the signature appetizer: Crawfish Cornbread. The menu describes it as “Moist and chewy, loaded with crawfish tails, cheddar cheese, corn and jalapenos. It’ll make you shout ‘AAIEEEEE!’”    Well, I may not have shouted, but if I had it would have been for more. Absolutely delicious with just the right amount of spice, perfectly balanced against the cheese and crawfish. If you have nothing else, you must have the cornbread. But I didn’t stop there.

With so many brews to try, I opted for a ‘Five Tap Taster’ which ended up being 6, but who’s counting, right? Some were brews I had tried before, and others I selected on Paul’s suggestion.

They were (in order):
• Unibroue Blanche De Chambly
• Cigar City Maduro Brown Ale
• Lost Coast 8 Ball Stout
• Unibroue Chambly Noire
• Cigar City Jai Alai IPA
• Stone Brewing Arrogant Bastard Ale

We talked about everything from being British (Paul was born in England but is a U.S. citizen now), soccer, to our shared distaste for the sportsbar atmosphere. He told me about taking over the restaurant from his father-in-law, heading up the Crawfish Festival held in April each year (it will be the 9th - 11th in 2010), and the upcoming Beer Festival on November 7th or this year.

“Are you ready for the surprise?” He grinned at me. “Now, you can order something off the menu if youwant, but I made up a little something special.” How could I say no? “We can get every kind of sausages you can name,” he said. “But for this, I justy got regular pork sausage… but I marinated them in beer.” But not just any beer. “I have had them soaking in Cigar City Maduro.” I was already salivating. The sausages are not a regular menu item yet, but Paul is considering adding them as a regular item once season picks up. They came with a side of red beans and rice as well as two large pieces of French bread. The red beans and rice are not “traditional” in the respect that they are not what you would find everywhere in New Orleans, but they are spicy and meaty, filled with Andouille sausage, Cajun smoked sausage, and Tasso (a Cajun spiced ham). Paul admitted he could sit and eat just that all day. The French bread was wonderful, light and soft on the inside with a fresh flaky crust.

After finishing my plate – no small feat, I assure you – Paul took me on a tour of the property. Located right on the water overlooking the Bayou, outside seating is available for those who want to watch the gators and fish float by. There is also a huge covered outside area behind the main building for parties and, of course, beer festivals.

Back inside, I was treated to a not-so-Cajun surprise. Another signature item, this time dessert: Whiskey Bread Pudding. For the record, when it comes to the Seven Deadly Sins, I have a tendency to favor in the Sloth and Gluttony departments. This dish put me squarely in the Glutton camp. Made with real French bread from a local French bakery, baked, soaked in the Cafe's own whiskey-butter sauce, then topped with French vanilla cream just before serving. Pure decadence, and worth every calorie.

Of course, a decadent desert calls for a decadent beer. And Paul did not disappoint. Stolen from his secret stash, the wily Brit produced a bottle of Affligem Noël, a truly exceptional Belgian strong dark ale. Potent and sweet without being cloying, malty and thick, it was the perfect accompaniment to the bread pudding.

Full and grinning ear to ear, we talked about the upcoming Beer Festival. Paul has made a point to stock his establishment with exceptional craft brew, and his Beer Festival is no exception. Some of the special offers are a 1/6 keg of Dogfish Head 120 IPA, and kegs of Bell's Expedition Stout and Dogfish Head Black and Blue. Of course, there will be many others from near and far, as well as Cajun music, food, and dancing.

Suddenly, it was past closing time. With another hearty handshake and goodbye, Paul walked me out. The hours had flown by, but my stomach was full, my beer appetite sated, and most of all, a new friendship formed. Such is the power of craft beer.