When you pair the gung-ho daughter/mother duo of Maria and Katerina Petesis with the creative minds of the team at cb5 Restaurant Group, what you end up with is a vibrant restaurant called Cactus Rose Cantina. This isn’t your ordinary cantina. Specializing in contemporary Southwestern cuisine, you’ll love the look (terra cotta floors, contemporary bar and a spacious uncluttered dining room) and feel (a warm, cozy adobe fireplace provides a sense of comfort) of Cactus Rose as much as the food. And if neither of those does it for you, the warmth and charm of Maria and Katerina will.
But wait…I just know you’re gonna love the food! Executive Chef Lisa Varnberg is ‘rocking the pots’ in the kitchen and it shows in the bold and vibrant flavors she produces. It’s the very best of Mexican, southwestern and Native American cuisines all rolled into one. Although the menu isn’t popping to excess with selections—and that plays very well in their favor; too much of a good thing makes it difficult to decide!—the appetizers, sides and entrée offerings are mouth watering and fresh. And the menu highlights include free range chicken, wild caught organic fish and seafood, heritage pork, natural beef and organic eggs.
The roasted corn chowder is thick, hot and smooth with crunch corn, apple wood smoked bacon, poblano peppers and potatoes. It’s the perfect antidote to a chilly New England winter. Another great use of the poblano from the appetizers is the poblano chile relleno. This saucy little number is a bulbous concoction crafted with cheese, black beans and red chile salsa. If you’re in the mood for seafood, don’t miss the smokey seafood cocktail. Garnering its smoky flavor from chipotle, this mélange of flavors is rounded out with lump crab meat, lobster and shrimp. Avocado adds a slightly downy texture and fresh lime brings a bit of crisp freshness to the dish.
A surprising show stopper was the New Mexican lamb chops. The chayote ratatouille was an impressively coupled twist with the chops and rose to the level of delicious without overshadowing the flavor of the chop. Who knew food with its own built in handle could be so damn good? And I must say that although pork is not a staple of my diet, I found myself licking that wonderfully caramelized flavoring from my fingers like a voracious carnivorous cavewoman.
Chef Varnberg can’t seem to stop this edible madness. The entrées read like a “Who’s Who” of the culinary set. From ancho glazed free range chicken to lobster enchiladas to barbecued wild salmon, the menu represents some of the best from land and sea.
Of course, you’ll also find the usual suspects—sizzling fajitas—but don’t expect the mundane to be anywhere near Cactus Rose. With a choice of mixed vegetables, skirt steak asada, Santa Fe free range chicken or spicy jumbo shrimp, practically all the bases are covered. And yes, there’s guacamole as well—three different varieties: fresco with tomatoes, Serrano chile, onions and cilantro; Diablo with chile oil and Serrano; and the granddaddy of ‘em all, the especial, filled with jumbo lump crab, lobster and chile-garlic butter.
I almost don’t want to get into the desserts for fear of lapsing into a sweet-treat-deficient coma. I will, however, brag on the fact that I’ve tried at least half of the mouth-watering confections, which included the insanely creamy and delectable leche asado, toasted pecan pie, chocolate chile pots de crème and the deceptively decadent crunchy pepper jelly doughnuts served alongside a vanilla milk shake. If the sugar high didn’t kill me, then the calories would. But that’s neither here nor there. They were all luscious.
Wilton isn’t exactly around the corner from my home. But I wouldn’t hesitate to venture out to Cactus Rose Cantina on a moment’s notice once again to relive the experience. You too can revel in the experience seven days a week from 11:30a to 11:00p.
Cactus Rose Cantina, 5 River Road, Wilton, CT / 203-762-8484
For dining options outside of Fairfield County, be sure to check out my other column, "International Restaurant Examiner", where I visit restaurants across the U.S. and abroad.
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