Brazilian spices: tempero baiano

The spice mixture tempero baiano, literally Bahian seasoning, gets its name from the northeastern Brazilian state of Bahia, but its popularity has spread throughout kitchens in Brazil. This spice mixture is versatile, complex, and distinctive. It is used to season fish, vegetables, and soups. It can transform a plain dish into something lively and flavorful, making your taste buds do the samba. Nearly every dish that my Brazilian husband cooks (with the exception of pasta) contains a healthy dose of tempero baiano.

There are perhaps as many variations of tempero baiano as there are Brazilians themselves. Like the ubiquitous Indian spice mixture garam masala, each cook, each family has their own version of tempero baiano. Some like it hot; some keep it more mild. Common elements that appear in most versions include oregano, one or more kinds of pepper, and parsley. I offer two versions: the first has just a handful of herbs and spices and an earthier flavor. The second version, from by my brother-in-law, a whiz of a Brazilian cook, consists of nine ingredients. It’s herbaceous and, courtesy of three different kinds of pepper, very spicy.

As with any homemade spice mixture, the fresher the spices are, the stronger the result. For the herbs, dried leaves (not ground) are preferred. Lhasa Karnak in Berkeley is an excellent, affordable place to buy bulk spices from all over the world. If you grind your own herbs and spices together in a spice grinder, you’ll get the best result. I keep a small Krups coffee mill exclusively for grinding spices (don’t use the same grinder to grind coffee beans, or your brew will become unpalatable due to the flavors of the spices). You may wish to vary the amounts of pepper if you prefer your food less spicy-hot.

Combine all ingredients and grind in a coffee mill or spice grinder for one minute. Hold lid tight, shake, and grind again. Repeat until the mixture is finely ground.

Tempero baiano #1

• 1 tsp. cumin seeds
• ½ tsp. dried parsley
• ½ tsp. turmeric
• ½ tsp. white peppercorns
• ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper or cayenne
• 1 tsp. dried oregano (use leaves for freshest effect)

 Tempero baiano do Sergio

• ¼ tsp. each white peppercorns, black peppercorns, and crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 tsp. dried basil leaves
• 1 tsp. dried marjoram leaves
• 1 tsp. dried parsley leaves
• 1 tsp. dried oregano leaves
• ½ tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1 bay leaf, torn into small pieces

Next: Chayote with tempero baiano