For the summer of 2013, renovation was the name of the game as anyone who has seen Del Mar’s Flower Hill promenade can attest. Amongst the renovated shops is an American brasserie that is turning all things traditional on its head.
Opened July 2013, Sea and Smoke replaced Paradise to instead bring some modernized comfort food to the pomp neighborhood of Del Mar. Not very striking from the outside, Sea and Smoke draws patrons in with their simplistic design and in depth flavor profiles. Everything about Sea and Smoke is a little tongue and cheek, which can be seen with dishes such as a Cauliflower cheese dip with warm toasted focaccia. When “foodies” have become a constant, there is an ever present need to push the boundaries of traditional flavors and Sea and Smoke delivers.
Salads are pretty commonplace and can get somewhat boring. Don’t get this wrong, salads are delicious, but dining out is one of those times when comfort zones should be pushed and new innovations tried. Dishes such as a spicy black bean spread tartine with avocado and the cauliflower cheese dip are the ones that should be first choice because what better way to really see the personality of the restaurant than to try a dish that embodies the personality of the chef.
It is not often that vegetarian dishes are on par with carnivorous dishes (when considering depth of flavor), although Sea and Smoke has made their vegetarian options (dare to be said) better than the meat counterparts. The star of the vegetarian options is the slow baked sweet onion, hands down. A succulent sweet onion topped with a brown butter sauce, served with roasted broccolini, puffed faro, and a hot red pepper fritter, is perfection on a plate; it has the balance between indulgence with a buttery sauce and health conscious as per the veggies noted. Although for carnivores and pescatarians alike there are options and mouthwatering ones at that. Bacon-almond dusted diver scallops served with a vanilla sauce, or a double pork chop roast with grilled peaches and a zucchini puree brings a modern twist to the traditional proteins.
There is no denying that variety is the spice of life, which seems like the motivation for the main dishes at Sea and Smoke as well as the sides. What other reason would there be to create a yellow beet gratin other than wanting to play with food. The yellow beets resemble the traditional potato, but in no way do they retain the monotony of them as there is just a bit more crunch and while it may be crazy to say eating beets seems a bit edgier and more adventurous.
Here is the big question: is it cheap? Well for a nice dinner, two people could get out the door spending less than $50, including two entrees, an appetizer, or a few sides. It is not In N’ Out prices, but it is reasonable considering the food will knock your socks off twice.
Blowing smoke. Literally.
October 3, 2013






