We first mentioned Spring 2014 Menswear in our sneak preview of the mens collection back in July 2013.
Now that the season has officially wrapped up we're right in the midst of Spring, we decided to give a part two to fully encompass Mens Springwear 2014 with a more up-to-the minute recap.
Menswear isn't pandering to the side of runner up this Spring. The set of collections aimed to be just as easily recognizable as the women's.
And with the plethora of debonaire, creative yet classy and studious looks presented, they can comfortably sit parallel to their largely popular sistren without hesitation.
Dominant trends for menswear this Spring include; Shades of grey (Bottega Veneta, Richard Nicoll, Rag & Bone, Pringle of Scotland, Sacai) Harem pants (Public School,Haider Ackermann, Yohji Yamamoto,Vivienne Westwood, Z Zegna) Slimmer more streamlined sandals (Acne Studios, Z Zegna) and a Rush of Color (Tom Ford, Versace, Paul Smith,Walter Van Beirendonck)
The best collections were straight from Vivienne Westwood, who took us on a journey around the world making stops in India, France and Bali.
Westwood tended to influential Eastern designs with a Western springboard--you could see this in the drafting and cuts. Trussardi, which conveyed the three c's-- keeping the collection crisp, casual and clean, ruminating the idea that you can still do designer wear and cater to the common man.
Honorable mentions; Richard James, Roberto Cavalli and Ralph Lauren.
The few surprises that were apparent involved the blurred lines between feminine and masculine aesthetics. Models in red lipstick at Thome Browne and Saint Laurent. Female models present at Prada and Tim Coppens. Tom Ford went with a variety of floral pieces and a few pink suits. Acne Studios employed a few cuts that to most would be considered of the female persuasion.
Chock it up to the fashion swap-- to put it in perspective there were many styles borrowed from the boys for womenswear this season thus the boys decided to return the favor.
Then there were the nearly nude models at Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Phillip Plein-- paying homage to the male physique.
What you will be seeing a lot of this Spring are ankle pants. The vast majority of the collections from Balmain to Valentino took the look and ran away with it. It works. It doesn't feel like capri pants, and there is still an alpha male component to what can be otherwise viewed as a very effeminate look.
It's also especially refreshing to see considering menswear is more complicit with extreme opposite of the ends--either extra loose trousers or skinny pants. The ankle pant makes for a moment to be neutral and unassuming.
Trends aside, Menswear Spring 2014 is a season to be applauded. It is a season that has a gamut of style ready to be consumed by the masses. If men were to rely solely on designer collections for their daily wears this Spring, let's just say the competition for wide spread appeal would be a stiff one--surely a welcoming sight for all to see.