My primary fermentation bucket with leftover yeast and blueberries
The secondary fermentation container can be a glass carboy or a plastic bucket. In Part II of my beer-making series, I provided photos of my own beer container (a plastic bucket outfitted with an airlock); this bucket has also been used as a secondary fermentation container in the past.
The siphon hose and pump are needed because the beer needs to be siphoned. Siphoning allows the top, clear part of the beer to be removed, leaving behind the bottom residue composed of yeast and other materials. Alternatively, if the yeast have floated to the top of the beer, siphoning allows for the removal of all the beer remaining below the yeast layer. This is especially important if a lot of other ingredients have been added to the wort, like hops, fruit, Irish moss, etc.
Siphoning equipment takes on many forms, and will also depend on the type of primary fermentation container you have been using. For a glass carboy, a curved racking glass tube, also called a cane, will be required. This cane is inserted through the opening of the glass carboy and peeks out over the carboy’s opening. A rubber or plastic hose is attached to the end of the cane and goes into the contents of the receiving bucket. With plastic buckets, you don’t need a cane, and may use rubber or plastic tubing completely.
To begin siphoning, place the container to be transferred from onto on a higher level. Place the receiving bucket on a lower level. This will facilitate liquid transfer via simple physics. Now, you need to start the actual transfer. This may be accomplished in one of several ways: obviously, using your mouth to suck in a bit of liquid through the rubber/plastic tube, then letting that tube's end touch the liquid base in the receiving container, will initiate transfer. Transfer will usually begin even if there is no liquid in the receiving container, simply because the level of the receiving container is lower than that of the transfer container. However, this method is obviously not very sanitary (even if you first gargle with whiskey, as some brewers recommend). You might also fill the entire siphoning hose with water, then let the lower end of the hose drop down into the receiving container, starting the flow of beer. The tiny amount of water that is added to the beer is negligible; however, it is a bit tricky to completely fill a bent hose with water.
A typical siphon starter
My personal preference is to use a siphon starter or siphon pump. The siphon starter is inexpensive and very effective (it’s shown in my photo to the right). You start the suction by creating a vacuum of air, which occurs when the pump tube is pulled up. Pushing down on the same tube, you force its inner lining to fill up with beer. Two or three such pumps completely fill the inner lining to the point where it starts spilling over into the attached rubber or plastic hose. Once this occurs, there is sufficient liquid differential for the beer to start coming out on its own.
Once the transfer is started, you need to diligently watch the hose to prevent any big yeast and/or material chunks from plugging the line. This is much easier to accomplish at the start of the transfer than towards its end, when the debris becomes much more concentrated. You stand a very good chance of plugging the line if you are making a fruit beer (and yes, I did plug my line while making the beer shown). If there is not enough liquid left over to restart the siphon, you may be stuck with filtering the last half gallon or so with a cheescloth and funnel. Therefore, it certainly pays to keep such “optional” items on hand.
Siphoning the primary fermentation beer
Once your beer has been racked, you may choose to add dry hops to it (a process called dry-hopping). If there is nothing left to do, take a rubber stopper that has been outfitted with an airlock and insert it into the glass carboy. If using buckets, take the lid that has been outfitted with an airlock (such as the one used for the primary fermentation container) and tighten it securely over the bucket.
Your transferred beer will now need to sit at least one additional week in a dark, cool place in order to undergo secondary fermentation. At that point, you will be ready to start bottling or kegging the brew. I will cover beer bottling in my article entitled How to Make Your Own Beer: Part IV.
If you're looking for brewing supplies, such as the siphon starter, Madison's own Wine & Hop Shop has all the brewing supplies you'll ever need. Check the place out sometime- not only are the staff helpful and friendly, but the place offers wine and beer samples from its own in-house taps!
Incidentally, the photo below depicts my own blueberry wheat beer that was being transferred to my secondary fermentation bucket.
Comments
I was waiting for this one. :-)
Whiskey? I didn't know I got to gargle with it, too? After my racking cane broke, I reverted to sucking on the hose to begin siphoning, hoping (or not caring) that the 6.3% ABV kills what little germs I had on my lips. Besides, it's MY homebrew. It should have more than just my soul in it.
Great series.
PS: Um, grapes?
Excellent article! I have several friends who brew, and I've been thinking of joining them. I'll have to read the entire series. It should be easy-- I just subscribed. :)
This is a great series. Very helpful and makes me want to make my own beer.
I'd love to try your home-brewed blueberry beer! :)
So THAT'S what those siphon hoses are really for! I thought they were made specifically to steal gas. :-)
I just don't have the patience. I'm glad other people do, though.
I wanted to make sure you knew how much I appreciate your comments on my articles. I am blown away by the science (or is it a religion?) of the beer making process. I really hope you and I can collaborate on an article or articles in the future :-)
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