As more and more quality restaurants move into the Mission, and the cloud of hype preceding their arrivals and surrounding their storefronts thickens, it's no surprise that from time to time a real gem can get lost in the shuffle. With all the talk in the last two years of the Mission Street Food movement, Delfina Restaurant and Pizzeria, Flour + Water, the re-opening of Limon, the new Local: Mission Eatery, and a variety of other high-profile restaurants, some local standbys have seemed to go unnoticed. The restaurant in question? Bar Tartine - a sister restaurant to the infamous bakery, located in the heart of the Mission at 16th and Valencia.
Although it was named one of the San Francisco's Top 10 restaurants in 2006, Bar Tartine has since seemed to shy from the spotlight. Maybe this is simply because of the popularity of its sister eatery, Tartine Bakery, which tends to attract an ample amount of media attention. Whatever the reason, I'm writing this review to say one thing: Bar Tartine with Chef Kronner at the helm (whose resume includes executive positions at both Slow Club and Serpentine) not only succeeds in providing both exceptional food and service, but is one of the best restaurants in the Mission. Period.
Although there may be less hype swirling around its doors, Chef Kronner's refined, contemporary menu combined with its romantic, upscale decor is equally worthy of the praise and accolades bestowed upon the bakery itself. Although the menu changes daily, every dish is uncomplicated and solid, and it was difficult to find fault in anything that was presented. Personal favorites include the ever-so-healthy roasted marrow bones ($11), pancake-like puffs of semolina gnocchi with Porcini mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes ($19), and the fillet mignon ($32). Honestly though, the heaps of perfectly-crisp, heavily seasoned fries accompanying the fillet was what really put it over the top.
And, if all of that isn’t enough to win you over, this restaurant comes equipped with a secret weapon: loaves of Tartine bread. And, everyone knows that there's no defense in the face of Tartine’s freshly baked bread. So, make sure you come prepared with two stomachs: one for your meal, and one for the bread.
As far as the wine goes, there wasn't a single complaint, and the service from every staff member, whether or not it was our waiter, was friendly, quick, and attentive.
Our meal ended with a rhubarb crisp ($7.5) served with honeysuckle ice cream, and the smallest glass of Moscato that I have ever seen. We couldn't help but laugh at how stout and proud that little glass was, and how absurd it was to even put something so miniscule on the menu. Drink aside, our dessert was a simple, clean presentation of a relatively classic dish that tasted just like it should: great.
Because Bar Tartine is located in an area covered in hipsters, artists, and a generally younger crowd, it's a bit of a surprise that the prices range from moderate to pricey. In other words, it's not exactly a place to just pop in and grab a non-tacqueria bite to eat with friends. But, as a date destination, or if you simply want to treat yourself to simple, solid food that's made with love, Bar Tartine is a perfect fit. Just as Tartine Bakery has perfected the classics of French Pastry, Bar Tartine has perfected the art of serving clean, worldly, uncomplicated food that requires no special press to validate its quality - the food speaks for itself.
Bar Tartine
561 Valencia Street
San Francisco, CA 94110-1114
(415) 487-1600
http://bartartine.com/index.html
Comments
I love the atmosphere of Bar Tartine, romantic in a slick way
Do they serve the Tartine bread now? Last time I was there they told me that they had to cut back because the bakery couldn't keep enough in stock. We actually had to buy the bread.
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