Clean lines, luminescence and geometric prints take center stage at the designer’s New York Fashion Week presentation
September 11, 2013, NEW YORK CITY — Clover Canyon takes its cues a little bit closer to home for its Spring/Summer 2014 line. In a stark departure from the brand’s Fall 2013 collection, which drew inspiration from Russia’s opulent past, this season it’s all about the modern architecture and landscape of mid-century Southern California—particularly Los Angeles, home base of Clover Canyon designer Rozae Nichols.
The new collection debuted to high praise with a Box presentation in the tents at Lincoln Center on Day 7 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Known for its signature eye-catching prints, the label trades in last season’s extravagant, romantic patterns for more crisp lines and vibrant geometric shapes. Nichols’s muses for the line: John Lautner’s famed Chemosphere home (built in Los Angeles in the 1960s), the forward-thinking creations of architects and furniture designers Charles and Ray Eames, and the works of light artists Robert Irwin, Dan Flavin and James Turrell.
To reflect the era in the models’ hair, lead stylist Linh Nguyen, for Cutler/Redken Salon, created a look that embodied the simplicity of the architecture of the time, but that still showcased a slight edge. The final look comprised two braids that ran from the hairline to the back of the model’s head, with structured, bone-straight hair on top. Regarding the plaits, Nguyen says, “I wanted to add something simple that would be a nod to the era without making it overkill—just a little bit of detail to make it look really sexy.” Nguyen used Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine serum to blow out the loose hair—“for a really nice, glass finish,” he explains—then finished things off with a spritz of Redken 23 Forceful Super Strength Finishing Spray.
Meanwhile, Deanna Melluso, the key makeup artist for Kevyn Aucoin, looked to artist James Turrell’s use of light and space to come up with the radiant makeup look for the show. Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize appears to be every makeup artist’s mantra for spring, and it was no different backstage at Clover Canyon. Melluso used Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer and The Sensual Skin Tinted Balm to hydrate the face first. She then applied The Creamy Glow cream blush in Tansoleil to the cheekbone and bridge of the nose, with The Loose Shimmer Shadow in Kunzite blended in on top, to give the face a luminescent sheen. For the eyes, Melluso used The Flesh Tone Lip Pencil as eyeliner for a soft, peachy effect, and used The Essential Mascara on only the bottom lashes to open up the eye. And finally, on the lips, she applied The Matte Lip Color in Timeless with her ring finger, and finished with The Lip Gloss in Regina for extra shine.
“The makeup actually takes away from the clothes… no, I’m kidding!” Melluso says, laughing. “The clothes are really bright, so all together the look is really cohesive and beautiful.”
Stay tuned for more Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week backstage beauty coverage!
Reporting by Vickie An