Just a quick note to let you know that the Terminal Brewhouse has secreted another seasonal offering from its generous pores. It is true that their ambition often overtakes them in the attempt to offer something new and exciting (I’m thinking of Magnum P.A., which replicates the experience of being punched in the mouth by a grass monster). However, this one can be stuffed vehemently into the “win” column.
The Terminal seems to really find its inspiration in dark beers. Dunkel Sam, their incendiary fourth of July brew (see what I did there?), is, of all things, a dark wheat beer. The Germans – Spaten, Kostritzer – are the only ones that have ever even been brave enough to try it; and those beers are difficult to find here and amusing at best. That’s why during July we as a nation should celebrate America’s awesomeness: we beat the Germans once again. Dunkel Sam is great.
If you try, you can probably accurately imagine most of its character. This is said not to underscore its being predictable, which it is, but rather to highlight its attainment of the ideal where other labels have fallen short. The flavor is dim without being dusky, which ablates a lot of the heaviness you find in American dunkels. It finishes crisply, with muted hop overtones – think of the treble turned up while the volume is kept down. It’s smoother than Antonio Banderas’ accent and, except to those for whom the texture of Weiss bier reminds them of their prison days, it actually makes a great session beer.
So go down and celebrate America’s grand tradition of stealing ideas from the rest of the world and then doing them better. (Except for that retarded show Wipeout; Ninja Warrior was way better.)
The Terminal Brewhouse, No. 6 14th Street. (423) 752-8090.