Adventure spotlight: Pedaling in the shadows of Siam - a bicycle tour around Ayutthaya, Thailand

Buddha statues in Ayutthaya, Thailand. Photo by Molly McCahan.

It’s a steamy morning in early August, and we’re piled into a Thai train with a herd of locals. Weather-wise, it‘s a deplorable time to find yourself in Bangkok, but we’re here to secure the Chinese visa we weren’t able to obtain in New Delhi the week prior. While we’ve come to adore Thailand’s illustrious capital city, even the most ardent of admirers needs a break from the chaos now and then - especially after several months in India and Africa.

Our respite comes in the form of a popular day trip on the tourist circuit heading north to Chiang Mai. We’re chugging slowly along the tracks just a few hours north of Bangkok for an afternoon of leisurely bike riding around crumbling temples, ancient Buddhas, and scenic countryside. Ayutthaya - the once-glorious capital of the Siamese kingdom dating back to the mid-14th century - awaits.

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The journey from Bangkok’s busy but manageable Hua Lamphong station is supposed to take about 1.5 hours. On this seemingly uneventful day, and for no apparent reason, it ends up lasting closer to three. But we don’t mind. Despite the crowds and the minimal airflow from the small ceiling fans that circulate erratically above our heads, we’re enjoying ourselves. The Thais are a friendly bunch, ever curious, and always ready to show us a good time. There’s a reason why they call this place the Land of Smiles.

It isn’t long before a few local ladies cram into the seats across from us, their arms overflowing with bags of goodies from a rural market. One of the women points at me, smiles, and says something in Thai. I smile back as her friend thrusts a bulging bag in my direction. My husband David flashes an evil grin. Longan. The dreaded squishy eyeball fruit so popular in this part of Asia. Not wanting to offend, I graciously take a small handful. Underneath the thin tan shell is a gelatinous opaque orb with a dark pit in the center. It looks remarkably very much like a human eye, which makes eating the thing a tad disturbing. I do my best to hide my discomfort and keep the grin going.

We arrive around 11:00am and head out on foot from the station in search of a bike rental shop. There are a number of them in town, and we settle on one across the street from one of the larger ruins. The shop is run by a cute family, and for the equivalent of a few dollars each, the bikes are decent enough. We pay in Thai Baht and head out to explore.

After touring a few of the larger ruins, one of which holds an ethereal stone Buddha head surrounded by unruly tree roots, we set off in search of lunch. It’s not long before we roll up to a sidewalk café that’s buzzing with locals - always a good sign. Parking the bikes in the shade, we plop down in small plastic chairs as our waiter-chef-proprietor whips up two steaming plates of cheap pad Thai. The lunch proves tasty and filling.

Destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century, much of Ayutthaya lies in ruin, but that‘s part of its allure. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, it manages to impress. While you can join an organized tour of the area, and even ride alongside some of the complexes atop a decorated elephant, we think it’s best seen on two wheels. The terrain is flat and the traffic minimal, making it easy to get around here.

We spend a beautiful sunny afternoon peddling slowly from one giant wonder to another. The ruins combine both Khmer and Thai styles, making for interesting contrasts. Most of the sites charge entry fees, so we pick and choose which ones to explore in more depth. We spend the bulk of the day gliding past ancient monuments, whizzing around wats, and coasting among endless stone Buddhas covered in traditional orange cloths.

We stumble upon the highlight of the day on the grounds of Wat Lokayasutharam, where a huge reclining stone Buddha seems to rise up out of nowhere. We circle the giant figure several times, completely in awe of its stature. At around 120 feet long and 25 feet high, this Buddha commands respect. We stop to offer an obligatory bow, feeling small alongside our little bicycles.

After five hours it’s time to return to the madness of the city. With about 45 minutes to kill, we grab cold beers and hot stir fry plates from one of the outdoor food stalls lining the street across from the train station. The locals amaze us again with their kindness and efforts to please. Our dinner setting is modest, to say the least, yet we’re treated to great service and excellent cuisine. Touring Thailand is always a pleasure.