Acireale's puppet theatre museum preserves Sicilian art form

I'd have you believe my puppets are not made of wood but are real men of flesh, blood, muscles and heart. - Emanuele Macri, famous puparo, Acireale

Long before Pinocchio ever entered the Italian imagination, puppetry was a popular form of entertainment throughout medieval Europe.  In Sicily, puppet theatre (or opera dei pupi) developed over the centuries to become an integral part of the island's cultural identity and the puppets themselves a major symbol of Sicilian folk art.

Technically marionettes because they are operated from above with strings and iron rods, Sicilian puppets were carved out of wood into characters from Sicily's turbulent history.  Plots were taken from tales of chivalry and troubadour poetry with Paladin heroes of the Norman Conquest and Crusades battling Saracens or vying for a lady's hand.  The most famous protagonists were dutiful Orlando and good-time Rinaldo and today little replicas of these companions at arms (and romantic rivals) still clatter in bunches around many a souvenir stand.

Sicilian puppet theatre falls into two main schools, Palermo and Catania, the main difference being that the Catanese puppets were nearly twice as large as those of the Palermo tradition.  Founded in 1887 by the famed Acese puppeteer (puparo) Don Mariano Pennisi and developed by his adopted son Emanuele Macri, the Acireale school tweaked the Catanese tradition and became world famous for its originality and artistry.

Today the Pennisi-Macri collection of antique puppets, stage equipment and painted backdrops at Acireale's Museo dell'Opera dei Pupi is a jewel in the town's cultural crown.    

Acireale's puppet theatre museum is located at #13 Via Alessi, within walking distance of the Piazza Duomo.  While live shows are infrequent in the winter, the museum is free of charge and usually open every day from 9 to 12:30 and from 16:30 to 19:30. 

Famous for its baroque churches and exuberant San Sebastiano (January 20) and Carnival celebrations, Acireale makes an excellent base for exploring Sicily's Mount Etna region.  See the Etna Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau for visitor information, special offers and accomodation links.  The Hotel Maugeri is a good pick in town for its central location, friendly management and excellent restaurant.

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While there are no direct flights between Toronto and Sicily, it is easy to transfer elsewhere in Italy for a flight to Palermo or Catania (Acireale's nearest airport).   Aeroplan members can collect points on all legs of their trip by booking through Air Canada and their partner Alitalia.  Driving from Lamezia, Calabria, is a scenic option.

For more impressions of--and links for--Sicily, visit my blog.