This is a sandwich from a place that I continually forget about. I am not sure why. I always enjoy my sandwiches there, which have the added bonus of being very good values. Maybe it is the setting, which is, at best, non-descript.
As you can expect from the name, the specialty at the tidy Houston taqueria Tortas El Angel is their take on the ubiquitous Mexican sandwich, the torta. Located in an older strip center filled mostly with Hispanic businesses bordering the Heights, the menu has grown in the past few years, but it is the tortas that still seem to entice most customers. A consistent pleaser is the straightforward La Pepito ($5.99, large and $7.99, giant). Served on sturdy, sufficiently large telara bread, the sandwich features juicy pieces of steak, strands of both raw and deeply burnished onion, slices of quickly sautéed fresh jalapeño, along with a few wedges of avocado and pieces of tomato. It is piquant, flavorful and, given the comparative heft of the recently made bread, a lot less messy than the usual local torta.
Tortas el Angel
1018 N. Shepherd (between 9th and 11th), 77008, (713) 862-9222