Growing up, salsa was a staple in our household, so I hold a special appreciation for this chip accompaniment. Phoenix is home to a number of tried and true favorites like the duo of smoky, chipotle based red and fiery jalapeno and garlic based green salsa at Rosita’s Place or the milder, smooth spicy/tangy sauce at Carolina’s. But there is a newcomer in town: La Condesa Gourmet Taco Shop. Forget salad bars; these guys have a salsa bar.
Located on 16th street between McDowell Road and Palm Lane, La Condesa is an unassuming little spot. Inside, it is a welcoming mix of rustic furniture from Bellas Artes and vibrant paintings from Mexican artists Manuel Gilavalos y Garcia and Ricardo Ramirez.
At first, the salsa bar, tucked back by the counter, appears equally unpretentious. Not so. Your mouth is about to go on a little adventure. With unexpected ingredients, and bright, bold flavors, it is tempting to just pull up a chair here. At one end are strawberry and jamaica salsas, a surprising combination of sweet and hint of spice. More traditional combinations include tomatillo salsa, pico de gallo, guacamole and smooth, smoky chipotle sauce. The Mexicana is a mouthwatering mix of spice and veggies. Equally appealing is the jicama salsa, a simple mix of crunchy jicama, cilantro and peppers. The creamy cilantro sauce looked appealing, but it seemed weak on this particular visit. And the peanut salsa is not my taste but gets points for originality.
While we can go on about the salsa, don’t get distracted from ordering. Step up to the counter to choose from tacos, burros or corn quesas, all offered with a variety of fillings. Cochinita Pibil, super tender pork with achiote rojo, is impeccable as is the Aztec Tinga, chicken with chipotle salsa, tomato and onion. Happily, the vegetarian tacos and burros are not just meatless concessions, but a well crafted mix of mushrooms, poblano, onion, spinach and Oaxacan cheese. There are also vege items on the quesa list, including poblano and cheese or wild mushroom and cheese. Quesas at La Condesa differ greatly from the flat tortilla-and-cheese combo. Think giant, flaky empanada-like concoctions that are surprisingly light given that they are fried.
Nothing here is greasy or heavy. The ingredients are fresh and dishes well executed. At roughly $3 for tacos a la carte to $7ish for a two taco plate with rice and beans or the burros and quesas, it is also quite affordable. The people are friendly. What’s not to like?
La Condesa is a great addition to the ‘hood, particularly when you need a salsa fix.
More info:
La Condesa Gourmet Taco Shop
Location: 1919 North 16th Street, Phoenix
Hours: 11 am to 9 pm, daily
Contact: 602.254.6330
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