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15 foot waves, damaging and life threatening surf due in southern California

Hurricane Marie has generating huge, potentially damaging ocean swells expected to impact southern California beaches beginning today.
Hurricane Marie has generating huge, potentially damaging ocean swells expected to impact southern California beaches beginning today.
Gary London

Rare event expected to affect normally protected areas including Santa Barbara county

Hurricane Marie, another in a series of unusually powerful eastern Pacific hurricanes has generated huge ocean swells which are expected to begin affecting southern California beach areas today (Tuesday).

Marie, which was located 450 miles southeast of Baja California on Monday, had sustained winds of 145 mph with gusts up to 160. While the storm is expected to continue weakening slowly, huge swells which have been generated over the past 36 to 48 hours will impact much of the southern and central California coast, reaching an expected peak this afternoon and continuing through Wednesday before slowly diminishing.

A high surf warning, which includes the possibility or likelihood of coastal flooding, beach erosion, life threatening riptide conditions and longshore currents is in effect for Los Angeles county beach areas, and extending a few miles inland. This warning includes Catalina Island.

Because of the location and timing of the initial southeasterly surge, usually calmer areas, including the southeast portion of Santa Barbara county will also vulnerable to dangerous conditions.

From the National Weather Service:

HIGH SURF ADVISORY NOW IN EFFECT FROM 10 AM THIS MORNING TO
6 PM PDT FRIDAY..
SURF AND TIMING...SURF IS EXPECTED TO BUILD RAPIDLY BY EARLY
THIS AFTERNOON...PEAKING LATE THIS AFTERNOON THROUGH WEDNESDAY
WHEN MAX SETS OF 10 TO 15 FEET WILL BE LIKELY ON SOUTH AND
SOUTHEAST FACING BEACHES OF LOS ANGELES AND VENTURA COUNTIES.
THE PALOS VERDES PENINSULA INCLUDING LONG BEACH... CABRILLO
BEACH...AND POINT FERMIN WILL BE ESPECIALLY VULNERABLE TO THE
INITIAL SURGE OF LARGE SOUTHEAST SURF TODAY INTO WEDNESDAY.
LOCATIONS...IN LOS ANGELES COUNTY HIGHEST SURF WILL IMPACT
LONG BEACH THROUGH PALOS VERDES PENINSULA...INCLUDING CABRILLO
BEACH AND POINT FERMIN...AS WELL AS MALIBU AND ZUMA BEACHES.
IN VENTURA COUNTY...PORT HUENEME...POINT MUGU...COUNTY LINE...
AND OXNARD SHORES WILL BE MOST IMPACTED BY THE HIGH SURF.

* IMPACTS...THIS POWERFUL SURF EVENT HAS THE POTENTIAL TO
PRODUCE STRUCTURAL DAMAGE TO PIERS AND BEACHSIDE PROPERTY AS
WELL AS SIGNIFICANT BEACH EROSION. THE POWERFUL SURF WITH VERY
STRONG RIP CURRENTS AND LONG SHORE CURRENTS WILL CREATE
EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SWIMMING AND SURFING CONDITIONS...
POTENTIALLY LIFE THREATENING. SNEAKER WAVES CAN BRING
UNEXPECTEDLY LARGE WAVES ACROSS ROCKS AND JETTIES NEAR THE
WATERS EDGE...AND SUDDENLY INUNDATE BEACHES.

Additionally:

LOCATIONS...FROM SANTA BARBARA TO RINCON POINT.

* IMPACTS...THE POWERFUL SURF WITH VERY STRONG RIP CURRENTS AND
LONG SHORE CURRENTS WILL CREATE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SWIMMING
AND SURFING CONDITIONS...POTENTIALLY LIFE THREATENING. SNEAKER
WAVES CAN BRING UNEXPECTEDLY LARGE WAVES ACROSS ROCKS AND
JETTIES NEAR THE WATERS EDGE...AND SUDDENLY INUNDATE BEACHES.