Five hot tips: Bangkok, Thailand

Guardian statues, Grand Palace, Bangkok, Thailand. Photo by Molly McCahan.

I’ll admit it: We hated Bangkok the first time we visited. Let’s just say the capital city of the fabled Land of Smiles didn’t exactly leave us feeling happy. My husband David and I started our 2005 whirlwind 11-week Southeast Asia tour with a ton of enthusiasm, but November in Bangkok quickly took the wind out of our sails. It was hot, crowded, smelly, polluted, noisy, and downright unappealing. Roaches roamed the streets, tuk tuks repeatedly tried to run us over, and the air seemed too thick for humane breathing. Our introduction to Asia wasn’t looking good.

But then something changed. We had the good fortune to embark on a farther-reaching global journey in 2007, this time taking in cities like Cairo, Addis Ababa, and New Delhi. And suddenly, Bangkok didn’t look so bad. In fact, compared to these other capitals, it was downright modern and orderly and - dare I say it? - serene. Bangkok became a refuge from the more chaotic places we encountered on that trip. It became our second home.

We found an affordable cozy hotel whose staff remembered us time and again. We shared ferry rides with monks along the Chao Phraya River. We mastered the SkyTrain, met great people, ate amazing food, discovered Thai massage, and got off the beaten path on numerous occasions. With each repeat visit, our love for the city increased exponentially, to where it’s now one of our favorite spots on the planet. Bangkok can do that to a person. It has a sneaky way of growing on you.

Here are my five hot tips for a trip to the Thai capital:

1. After visiting the requisite (and crowded) sites of Wat Pho, the Grand Palace, and Wat Arun, consider heading across the Chao Phraya to the lesser-visited Thonburi neighborhood. It’s the childhood home of the current King’s late Princess Mother, and there’s a great walking tour here that takes in several splendid temples and interesting sights. Wat Kalayanamit is perhaps the most impressive, housing the largest Buddha I‘ve ever seen in Thailand. And Wat Prayoon is definitely the funkiest stop: it houses a number of odd shrines, a crematorium, and a grotto. A highlight here is purchasing food from a vendor, borrowing a stick, and feeding the turtles and fish that swim in the pools surrounding the temple.
2. Get a massage. Or two. Or ten. Seriously. With starting rates at 200-300 Baht (about $5.86-$8.90 USD) for an hour-long foot or Thai massage, body work in Bangkok is a ridiculously good value, not to mention insanely therapeutic after a long day of sightseeing. We treated ourselves just about every night. Sure, some parlors are better than others, but don’t judge the strength of a Thai girl’s hands by the size of her body. The tiniest of women can work out the toughest of knots. And most of the places are on the up and up, although you should use discretion. If a place looks unclean or shady, skip it.

   The tiny sois off Sukhumvit Road between the Phrom Phong and Thong Lo SkyTrain stations offer endless locations, as does Silom Road between Silom 18 and Thanon Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra. (Note: Bangkok addresses can be confusing. Locations are often referred to by “soi,“ which is a Thai term for side street. So Silom Soi 18 might be called Soi 18, and Sukhumvit Soi 24 might be referred to simply as Soi 24 or Suk Soi 24.)

   One note of caution: Bangkok’s infamous Patpong district is probably not the place to seek out a legit massage, unless you’re looking for a different type of body work.

3. For a taste of Thailand beyond Bangkok, hop a train from Hua Lamphong Station, and day trip several hours north to the ancient Siamese capital of Ayutthaya. Dating back to the 14th century, it’s a peaceful town perfect for touring by bicycle (or elephant, if you desire). We spent the afternoon riding around ancient temples and giant Buddhas, and eating pad Thai from a street vendor. Take the third-class train with the rest of Thailand, and enjoy a local’s view of the country.
4. Eat on the street. No, not literally, but do check out Bangkok’s endless array of awesome sidewalk cafes, where you can rub elbows with the locals and grab a meal for about 75 cents. It’s helpful to know a few words of Thai menu lingo, such as gai (chicken), goong (shrimp), muu (pork), or phat phak (stir-fry vegetables). Our rule of thumb: Always look for a wok. We Westerners tend to get into trouble with the local grub when it’s not properly cooked, and having your food fried usually takes the parasites out of the picture.

   If you’re needing a Western fix, Bangkok’s not short on slick, modern shopping malls that offer surprisingly good selections of tasty affordable treats. The basement food court in the glitzy Siam Paragon is our fave spot. Leave your preconceived notions at the door; the Thais put American mall chow to shame. Combine this with the heavenly air conditioning, killer gelato, and multiplex movie cinemas on offer, and you‘ve got the perfect recipe for a great escape from Bangkok’s steamy street scene.

   And don’t miss the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. Stock up on souvenirs for your friends back home, then grab a cold beer and a cheap plate of food. You’ll dine under the stars and might even be treated to free Thai music from the concert venue here.

5. For around-the-world travelers, Bangkok makes a great hub, not just for its proximity to a variety of exciting Asian destinations, but for its Western conveniences, too. Stock up at a Tesco (the U.K.‘s answer to Wal-Mart) on everything from Q-tips to vitamin C to bras. (Watsons and Guardian pharmacy stores abound as well.) The awesome English language Dasa Books has a great selection of second-hand fiction and travel guides; they also buy back your used books, which frees up space in the ’ole backpack for more Thai silk scarves and boxer shorts (can you ever have enough?). The Bangkok postal service is cheap and reliable: Consider shipping home your stockpile of souvenirs, extra clothes (or donate them), and backup CDs of your photos.