Auto rickshaw in India. Photo by Molly McCahan.
We awoke at 4:45am in Bodh Gaya, India, hurriedly dressed, threw on our packs, and shuffled out into the eerie pre-dawn darkness to catch a 30-minute ride to the train station. We’d just spent eight days in the shadow of the famous Mahabodhi Temple, where the Buddha reportedly sat under the Bodhi tree and attained enlightenment over 2,500 years ago. We’d also received a blessing from His Holiness the 17th Karmapa, a young Tibetan, and one of the most revered spiritual leaders in the world. One thing’s for sure - it had been a life-changing week.
But despite what the guesthouse staff had said the night before, there were no rickshaws in sight at that ungodly hour. Not a one. There weren’t even any stray dogs or cows milling about. We were alone on the streets - a rarity in this country.
So we walked up the pitch-black road to the main square and found a few locals. Then we heard the sputtering of a motor. An auto rickshaw magically appeared from around a corner, its passengers alit, and we leaned in to ask about a ride. Two young children stared back at us, one around 10 and the other pushing eight. They flashed crafty smiles and exchanged a few words of Hindi with a nearby man. We asked the fellow what was going on. He replied in decent English.
“They will take you to the station for 200 rupees.”
“Who?”
“The boys.”
Are you for real? He had to be kidding. But when our jolly translator didn’t flinch, we reluctantly climbed in.
It was a serious rip-off, but at 5:15am - in the middle of nowhere and with a train to catch - you have no bargaining power. We agreed to the price but insisted they stop for no one. Playing taxi for the locals while the tourists foot the bill is a common scam in India. We’d been taken by it when we first arrived, and, as good sports in an unknown culture, had laughed about it in the beginning. But it had gotten tedious after a while, and we were smarter now. We knew how to play the game…or so we thought.
Not a minute had passed before our rickshaw slowed up beside several villagers. A few men scrambled to hop on, but my husband David blocked their entrance.
“Sorry. No.”
David then reminded the boys about our agreement. Giggling ensued, they mocked him in broken English, then urged the men to join us.
“No,” David demanded, at which point the men got the message, but the kids refused to budge.
“Please take us to the train station now.”
The kids looked at each other, then blurted out, “200 rupees, 200 rupees,” pointing first at me and then at David. Ah, the game continued.
“No, 200 rupees for both,” replied David, as he pointed to the two of us.
This back and forth continued for a while until David grew uncharacteristically angry and gave them a stern talking to. When nothing changed (had we expected them to respond in our favor to an English lecture?), we just repeated “200 rupees” to get the show on the road, and off we went.
What ensued was one of the most harrowing experiences of our entire 14-month trip. The young punks drove as if we were characters in a wild video game, laughing like fools out for a joyride, yelling at the tops of their lungs in a language we couldn’t comprehend. I cringed as they played chicken with oncoming Tata trucks, whose drivers were likely intoxicated even at this ungodly hour. Covering my eyes, I clutched wildly at my backpack wedged between my knees, offered a few prayers to Buddha, braved off the cold, and hung on for dear life as our rickshaw screamed down dim country roads.
We arrived at the Gaya train station at 6:00am, shaken and seriously freaked out, at which point another quarrel broke out about the money. We stood our ground, left 200 rupees on the rickshaw’s front seat, and wearily walked off to find our train. To add insult to injury, we were facing a 13-hour journey to Agra in a second-class sleeper car. But this was India. Not New York or Greece or China or even Bangkok. Gritty, chaotic, maddening, heartbreaking, frustrating, but ever-enchanting old India. That little detail always changes everything.
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Comments
Terrifically written especially the last two lines. I felt like I was right there beside you getting angry. I have never been to India, but I felt a similar attachment to Vietnam.
Thanks Ted! I tried to tone down my frustration to a point, as I have a love-hate relationship with India. I want to go back!!!! I miss it!!!! And I also know how challenging it can be at times. The good far outweighs the bad there, though, so stay tuned for future features on the country...there are plenty more stories where that one came from. :-)See about getting it on your next itinerary, eh?!!!
Funny you mention Vietnam, as we struggled there, too. Our least favorite of the SE Asian countries, but still a beautiful place with some kind people and delicious food. Cheers!
I feel really sorry for this. Since i am from the same place GAYA, i would try to stop this and make the place more safe.
I apologies you on behalf of all people of gaya.
Namaste, Alok!
Thank you for your kind post, and for sharing your feelings on behalf of the people of Gaya. I do not hold your town responsible; in fact, we encountered similar treatment in different places throughout the world.
I appreciate your kind thoughts, and I wish you well!
Namaste, McCahan
Thanks for understanding the problem.If you visit again i will try my best to help you.Again sorry for the inconvinence.Some time being a Indian we face problem in south India but we are hopefull that one day will over come this problem infact many places gov has made law to protect tourist.
Thanks
Alok
Greetings Alok,
Thanks for your reply. Sadly India has its share of problems, which I, too, hope will all resolve one day. Wouldn't a more peaceful world be wonderful? I will continue to hold your dear country in my thoughts. Honestly, our time in Bodh Gaya was a highlight of our travels in India, so hopefully that will bring you some comfort. Be well!
Hi McCahan ,
Thanks for your comment, even we want peacefull world :).
From which country you belong?
Thanks
Alok
Namaste, Alok. We are Americans, living in San Francisco, CA. We hope to be back in India in 2011. Despite some tough times traveling there, the country is magical, the people wonderful, the food amazing. We love it! Be well!
Hi McCahan
Thats really great, thanks for compliment. Even i am working for American company "Accenture". Right now i am in Bangalore(south India).Hopfully your next trip will be wonderfull.If i get a chance i will definetly help you and you can also njoy home food at my place in gaya as our guest :).
Have a nice day.
Thanku
Alok
Hello Alok!
Thank you for your kind words, and for the most gracious offer to join you and your family at your home in Gaya for a meal. We love the hospitality of the Indian people. I hope you are enjoying your work in Bangalore.
Thanks for following my writing. You might be interested to read my latest features on Rajasthan. I am working on a five-part series on our time there. Parts 1 and 2 are already up; I post Part 3 on Friday, and 4 and 5 to follow.
Be well! Molly
Hi McCahan
Thats great, please send me link.I would really like you know, what people think about my country and how i can make my country more beautiful and loveable :).
Thanks
Alok
Nameste Alok,
It won't let me paste links here in the Comments section, but if you look at the end of this article where it says More About, and click on Asia, it will take you to all of my stories about Asia. The Rajasthan features are the most recent, so they should appear at the top. I am posting parts 4 and 5 later this week, and will be writing more about India in the future.
I appreciate your desire to make your country more pleasant for travelers. I think you'll see from my other India articles that I try to share both the frustrating and the wonderful with folks, good times with bad. I do try and stress that, while India can be overwhelming and crazy at times, it's also beautiful, with wonderful cultures and kind people, and a place everyone should experience in their lifetimes.
Happy reading, and be well!
Hi McCahan
How are you?Sorry for responding so late, I was busy in work as well as it is festival time here.
Thanks
ALOK
Hello Alok!
No worries, and happy Diwali! I hope you are enjoy the festivities of that great celebration. Enjoy!
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