¡Viva Cuba!

Travel to Cuba has been for many years an exciting , forbidden (and illegal) prospect for Americans the last 40 years. With the succession of Raul Castro and the cracking of the American Cold War travel ban , otherwise known as Helms-Burton or "the embargo"; in my opinion it is not long before Canadians are outnumbered in Cuban resorts by Americans looking for the Caribbean at its finest. 

I have made numerous trips to Cuba over the years. I have met countless people who have a real interest in going and a real fear of the repercussions such as fines and arrest.  On many occasions people have asked me how I do it . How did I get around the embargo? Now with a kinder, more rational administration in place in the United States, this is the transition point. This is the time to go while the going is good. This is the calm before the tour- package -knee- socks- with- sandal- clad-wait I'll speak -louder-slower-English -so you -understand-me storm. Cuba is gorgeous for being the "no go zone " it is. 

 It is still illegal on paper for a US citizen to trade with Cuba, including trading money for a taxi ride or mojito at the Hotel Inglaterra. Getting into Cuba requires going through a third country. Jamaica , only 90 miles from Cuba , is usually cheapest way to go. From that island expect to pay around $200-400 roundtrip from Montego Bay via Kingston. Other transit points include the Bahamas, Costa Rica, Honduras, Canada, and Mexico. Cancun is not the best departure point as Mexican authorities , under pressure from the United States is getting strict on Americans flying to Cuba. Mexico City would be a better choice. 

Havana's Jose Martí International Airport  has customs agents well aware that stamping a US passport is a problem for the traveler when the re-enter the States. You will receive a star or another symbol with no mention of Cuba. However the dead give away in Miami or Houston customs when you go home providing you don't get caught with any Cuban goods (cigars and rum  best partaken of before returning to the States), is the dual entry stamps for your transit country , ie Jamaica , in your passport, one from your in-bound flight from the US and one from your return flight from Cuba. I have found the customs rarely asks or notices. The authorities in Jamaica or the Bahamas can be gently reminded to not stamp the same pages upon your return. Additionally despite the fact that US customs is well aware that a "random" star or moon is a Cuban stamp, simply deny having been there. If you deny and have nothing with you to prove otherwise, they cannot prove your visit. I got a bit reckless on my last visit , bring T shirts buried in dirty laundry, pesos in my deodorant and my guidebook, journal and camera with clear picture evidence. But I had been to Negril and it was never an issue. However my advice is don't risk it by bringing anything back that will confirm your visit , some inspections are particularly unpleasant. Houston 's Bush Intercontinental leaps to mind. 

Cuba is wide open for exploration. Havana is the most well preserved colonial complex in the Americas. The western end of the island is covered by magotes , hills in the rolling tobacco land of the Viñales Valley, Piñar del Río province. The east is full of colonial History along and the pulse of the revolution beats in cities like Cienfuegos , and Santiago de Cuba. Diving is superb. Most of all the people are glorious , complicated , open and welcoming. Cubans , rolling around with the relics of American influence -street pizza , coca cola, 1950's Chevy's -are exceedingly curious about their northern neighbors. The American dollar is the hard currency of choice and the country encourages both cultural and some monetary exchange. All over the country people have converted their homes into guesthouses, las casas particulares where it is possible to stay with a family and experience life up close. Ammenties vary but to be a casa particular , the government has certified the home as suitable for foreigners (having water (cold) , electricity, a seperate bedroom) . The sticker on the door , a blue triangle will indicate a casa. Foreigners pay in American dollars , not local currency. Room and board is given in return. The government taxes these small enterprises. American currency enables the families to  provide a better life for their families by being able to buy foods that may not be available on Cubans with only the ration card or in Cuban pesos. The average Cuban makes around $12 dollars a month US. EVERYTHING is subsidized heavily , but everybody I know in Cuba finds living well on $12 nearly impossible. 

MORE INFORMATION:

If you are staying at a casa some basic Spanish is a must to be able to communicate needs and get the best out of the experience. My favorite casas are:

In Havana : Hostel Dulce , Amistad 220, entre San Miguel y Neptuno, Centro la Habana. Run by Sra Dulce María Gonzalez Concepción. Dulce has a gorgeous colonial house near the Inglaterra and the Havana Seawall. She is welcoming and kind taking foreigners out to experience Havana when time permits. She makes the best cafecito in town. 

In Viñales, Pinar del Río Province:Casa Olguita y Juan Carlos, Maria Granjales no 1 in Viñales. A room is approximately $20 US a night per person. Whole family lives in town . Cigar rolling , fiesta giving family with some of the best fruit in the country. Their home has easy laidback provencial feel . Close to good country walks, cigar factories, a quiet provincial town and the far western tip of Cuba (María la Gorda) and spectacular diving.