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Adirondack Rock Climbing: Rooster Comb

Josh Wilson at the end of the first pitch on the Old Route on Rooster Comb.
Josh Wilson at the end of the first pitch on the Old Route on Rooster Comb.
Credits: 
Photo by Phil Brown

The 2,788-foot summit of Rooster Comb has long been a popular destination for day hikers: the mountain’s cliffs offer a splendid view of the Adirondack High Peaks. The mountain also lures rock climbers who enjoy wild crags and have cultivated an interest in the history of their sport.

Fritz Wiessner, the legendary climber and mountaineer, put up the first route on Rooster Comb’s cliff in 1949, accompanied by Jim Goodwin, his frequent partner on Adirondack ascents.

Though rated only 5.4 in the Yosemite Decimal System, the Old Route, as it’s called, follows an interesting line as it wanders for 420 feet up the cliff to the summit. You’ll encounter a little of everything its four pitches, including a steep ramp, a narrow chimney, a long traverse across a wide ledge with great views, and a final ascent beside a huge right leaning corner. Along the way, you’ll pass several old pitons that may have been hammered in by Wiessner himself. They are historical artifacts and should be left in place.

The guidebook Adirondack Rock awards the Old Route three stars out of a possible five. Some climbers may be inclined to award it an extra star for its wild setting and historical interest. It’s a route that should appeal especially to novice climbers, who will be able to practice a variety of skills.

Adirondack Rock lists only two other climbs on Rooster Comb: the Woolsey Route, which is a harder (5.8) start to the Old Route, and Cock-a-doodle-doo, a 5.9 one-pitch route pioneered by Ed Palen, the owner of Adirondack Rock and River.

The guidebook contains details of each route and a photo of the cliff with the routes superimposed.

Directions: From the Route 73 trailhead in Keene Valley, it’s a 2.5-mile hike to Rooster Comb’s summit. At 2.0 miles, the trail reaches a junction. Bear right to stay on the summit trail. At 2.2 miles, you come to side trail that leads to a ledge. Stay on the main trail for a few minutes longer. Where the trail takes a sharp right turn, continue straight into an obvious gully that descends to the base of the cliff.

 

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Adirondacks Outdoor Recreation Examiner

Phil Brown is the editor of the Adirondack Explorer newsmagazine, a bimonthly publication with a focus on outdoor recreation and environmental...

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