WASHINGTON (Map, News) - In only 12 years of existence, Delaware’s Dogfish Head Brewery has established itself as one of the top regional craft breweries in the nation. Known for intensely hopped, high-alcohol brews, Dogfish’s offerings can often make beer lovers coo like wine lovers, using words like “floral,” “tobacco” and “grassy.”

After opening its flagship brewpub in Rehoboth, the company took over a Gaithersburg space in 2005 for its first Dogfish Head Alehouse (all the beer still is made in Rehoboth).

Virginians should take heed as well: Another Dogfish location is set to open in Falls Church later this summer.

» The Scene:

The two-level space, formerly the West Diamond Grill and Pat & Mike’s, comes straight out of brewpub central casting — tin ceiling, dark wood, neon signs. The bar is dark and cozy (and offers free Wi-Fi).

» The Pour:

Oh, where to begin? You might try the seasonal festine peche, an impossibly light wheat beer made with peaches. Or stick with the brewer’s bread-and-butter brews: the award-winning 60 Minute IPA and 90 Minute IPA (named for how long the beer is exposed to hops) or the reddish Indian Pale Ale. Creamy stout gets a jolt from chicory. For something even more different, try the Raison D’Etre, a wine-y brew made with raisins, beet sugar and Belgian yeast. Dogfish’s light beer, called Lawnmower Light, puts any mass-produced light to shame. One caveat: Supply is inconsistent, so they may be out of your first, second or even third choice.

» The Taste:

The kitchen does a few things very well here. Thin-crust pizza, which comes in eight varieties, gets finished over the wood grill for a pleasant smokiness. Hand-cut, golden brown “beach fries” earn their name — they’re as good as anything you’ll taste on a boardwalk. Burgers are tasty, and fried shrimp, grouper and/or cod are perfectly pleasant renditions of old favorites. But the kitchen doesn’t stick to its strengths. On the overly long menu, you’ll also encounter tough, chewy mussels; chili that could be from a can; and fish that may or may not be past its prime.

» The Touch:

Service here is informal, yet capable and very pleasant. You’ll be hard-pressed to stump the staff on a beer question, and you can expect the manager to check in with you at least once.

» Don’t miss:

The limited-release 120 Minute IPA. Hopped, hopped and hopped again, this beer approaches 20 percent alcohol by volume. Its next release will be in September.

» Why you will go:

Because it’s a far better experience than TGI Friday’s or other chain restaurants that serve similar fare.

» Why you won’t go:

Because you’re a city dweller: Set among office parks, this is the quintessential suburban environment.

DOGFISH HEAD ALEHOUSE

800 W. Diamond Ave.

Gaithersburg

301-963-4847

www.dogfish.com

» Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday

» Prices: Appetizers: $5 to $11; sandwiches and pizza: $7 to $12; entrees: $13 to $21.

» Bottom Line: The beers win medals, not the food.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com

Comments from Examiner Readers

12:15 PM MST on Mon., Mar. 17, 2008 re: "New eateries may bud in Haight-Ashbury"

Gaza George said:
Let them eat and drink. Too many hemp products can be harmful to the multinational restaurant bottom line. Go liquor holes.

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7:27 AM MST on Fri., Oct. 5, 2007 re: "Chef Paolino�s dishes pasta with pizazz"

Examiner Reader said:
I was very surprised by the comment. When we go to eat at Chef Paolino, I always take the kids to a table first and either my husband or I order for all of us. Our first time there, we all took a menu to a table and then my husband went up and ordered for the family. I think the writer just misunderstood.

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8:42 AM MST on Wed., Sep. 12, 2007 re: "Chef Paolino�s dishes pasta with pizazz"

Examiner Reader said:
On the evening of 09/07/07 my family and I went to eat at this restaurant for dinner at 5:30 pm. Being our first time there I questioned if they would seat us or should we seat ourselves. The employee advised me we had to go order our food then we could seat ourselves. I ask him if I could please sit first. In my arms was my handicapped 5 year old daughter who from Spinal Bifida can not walk, my husband was carrying our 3 month old son and I had 3 other children with me ranging from 7 to 9. I explained to him I could not continue to hold her and go order my food due to her wait. It would be impossible to hold her and order, pay, ect. Even after explaining why I needed to be seated first he refused to do so. My family and I had to leave that establishment and to say the least was very dissatisfied with our first experience at the Chef Paolino Cafe.I believe this restaurant needs to change there process of ordering and seating customers. This process is very difficult for the handicapped

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12:51 PM MST on Mon., Jun. 25, 2007 re: "Powell brings Jamaican spice to Penn Quarter restaurant"

Anon said:
Chef Alex Powell's enthusiasm for his work and his creations comes across well in this article. As a food connoisseur and a lover of island flavors, it will be my priority to visit the 701 Restaurant. The chef takes me back to my own roots where the belief is that you can never go wrong with simple, natural ingredients. Way to go chef and welcome to DC!

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5:39 PM MST on Mon., Jun. 4, 2007 re: "Beer soup brightens meal in Ellicott City"

Examiner Reader said:
Sounds like a typical visit to most restaruants these days. Steak are always "iffy" I try to avoind them because a chef will tell you fat on a steak helps retain juices, but I don't like fat. Also, if I see a sauce on anything I avoid it. especailly at a place where I have never eaten. I had a friend that was a professional chef. I was grilling steaks at my house one day and asked him to show me how he made his steak taste so good. He rubbed both sides with salt.

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