WASHINGTON (Map, News) - Two years ago, Jeff and Barbara Black took their Montgomery County-based restaurant empire into Washington, and also gave it a modern sheen, with BlackSalt. For their efforts, they were rewarded last year with the “Best New Restaurant” designation from the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington.

But as soon as BlackSalt was up and running, the restaurateurs proved they can multitask, as they set about remaking their flagship establishment in downtown Bethesda, Black’s Bar and Kitchen. Thanks to a multimillion-dollar investment (the Blacks bought the building outright), the room reopened a year ago this week with a fully renovated kitchen and a snazzy facelift for the front of the house.

» The Scene:

“Wow, it’s a totally different restaurant,” said my companion, who hadn’t been back since the change. Indeed, it’s a temple to modern, upscale design, with clean lines, vases of dried branches set into the wall in the bar area and a large pastoral mural along the back wall. Perhaps most attractive is the large outdoor patio, paved in pebbles and dominated by a small, gurgling pond. The only thing that wasn’t welcome was the rap music that kept playing through dinner.

» The Pour:

Two words define the wine list: “American” and “affordable.”

Even in Montgomery County, which has some of the strictest liquor laws around, you won’t get taken for a ride on well-known labels. Jeff Black says the prices are “intentionally very competitive,” in an effort to draw wine lovers.

» The Taste:

The menu gets started with a series of small plates for $3 to $6 each. Among the best are a crab fritter with julienned apples and yogurt-curry sauce; baby octopus with garlic and chorizo; and seared scallops with currants, peppers and harissa oil. From the grill, you’ve got your choice of a huge pork loin, Australian rack of lamb, ribeye steak and organic salmon. Most stand perfectly well by themselves without the a la carte sauces for $2 to $5 each. For something a bit more chic, “composed plates” include delightfully tender soft shell crabs fried in tempura, Alaskan halibut with English peas and leeks, and the much-talked-about twice-cooked chicken.

As pleasing as the overall experience may be, the kitchen still isn't without its missteps. A warm beet and spinach salad with pancetta vinaigrette emerged drenched in oil. Fish is too often underdone or overdone.

» The Touch:

Service can be hit and miss. The staff is unfailingly polite and knowledgeable, yet it can sometimes take an inordinate amount of time to be greeted, get bread, get water, get the check, etc.

» Don’t miss:

The complex, artistic deserts by pastry chef Janelle Birdsall. On my last visit, I sampled a twist of Peruvian chocolate with cherry sorbet, and sections of blueberry-studded Belgian waffles with a baked apricot. Both were delicious without being decadent.

» Why you will go:

To sit at the bar for a few oysters and a glass of wine. A half-dozen varieties of bivalves are typically available, from shores across the continent.

» Why you won’t go:

Because with even fewer tables than it had before the renovation, it may be tough to get a seat at prime hours.

BLACK’S BAR AND KITCHEN

7750 Woodmont Ave.

Bethesda

301-652-5525

blacksbarandkitchen.com

Prices: Lunch: $7 to $18; dinner: appetizers and small plates: $3 to $15; entrees: $17 to $28

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday; Sunday brunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

» Bottom line: Both a great neighborhood hangout and an upscale destination.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com