WASHINGTON (Map, News) - In case you weren’t aware (I wasn’t), a new neighborhood has been christened downtown. It’s called “Midtown,” Manhattan-style, and it apparently lies between Thomas Circle and K Street. And another high-end restaurant has landed there.

Mio, at the corner of Vermont and L streets, is the brainchild of Miguel Iguina, a Puerto Rican native who has run the dining rooms at Café Atlantico, Restaurant Nora and Yannick Cam’s Provence.

Mio had a rocky first few weeks after its early May opening, as Executive Chef JohnPaul Damato, whom Iguina lured from Jose Andrés’ ThinkFood Group, bolted back to his former employer. For the time being, Iguina has put the kitchen in the hands of sous chef Ryan Wheeler, who has continued quite capably to execute Damato’s menu.

There’s a lot to like here, but if there’s a problem, it’s that the restaurant doesn’t quite know what it wants to be. The slew of rum-based cocktails created at the bar, coupled with menu items such as chili-braised short ribs with chimichurri, suggest a South American vibe.

Other choices, such as baby artichokes and morels with tomato and oregano, or mushrooms and escarole over polenta and olive tapenade, scream “Mediterranean!”

» The Scene:

Mio is another restaurant that nods to the fashion of the day by eschewing color. Designed by Grupo 7 Design Studio in Georgetown, it’s bathed in dark woods, rust-colored metal and neutral tones. The centerpiece is a giant sculpture hanging from the ceiling that looks like the body of a large canoe.

» The Pour:

About 20 wines by the glass or half-glass lead a well-priced wine list that’s heavy on boutique wines from France, Spain and South America. And the cocktails here are carefully considered and painstakingly made: A margarita is livened up with blood oranges puree and house-made sour mix; the “New Fashioned” substitutes peaches and dark rum for the usual orange and bourbon; even the ubiquitous mojito gets a candied mint leaf.

» The Taste:

Despite the schizophrenic nature of the menu, it does provide a lot of happy moments. Carolina soft shells were seared on the flat iron and served with Old Bay, butter and pea puree. A roasted rack of pork was thick and juicy, set off nicely by a sherry sauce. Semi boneless quails with chard, feta and grape sauce was another winner. Even modest chicken breast is dressed up at lunch with a sage marinade and a tangy cabbage slaw.

» The Touch:

On my visits, service was pleasant, helpful and spot-on with recommendations.

» Don’t miss:

The happy hour deals. From 5 to 6:30 p.m. on weekdays, specialty cocktails are $5. And the kitchen is serving a three-course pre-theater menu for $25 from 5 to 6:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

» Why you will go:

Value in the neighborhood. You’ll get better food here than at the overhyped Il Mulino New York next door — for about half the price.

» Why you won’t go:

Because you may be the only one there. Word of mouth, it seems, hasn’t spread yet about Mio. I’ve never seen the place more than half-full.

MIO

110 Vermont Ave. NW

202-955-0075

www.miorestaurant.com

Prices: Lunch: $9 to $18; dinner: appetizers: $8 to $14; entrees: $17 to $27. Valet parking: $10.

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; bar/lounge: 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday to Thursday, 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

» Bottom line: A promising space, but perhaps the change in the kitchen will add much-needed direction.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com