WASHINGTON (Map, News) - The historic Willard Hotel wasn’t exactly wanting for dining options. From the high-end, Old World Willard Room to the more casual Café 1401 to the Occidental restaurant next door, the property had its culinary bases covered.

Nevertheless, this spring, the hotel’s owners unveiled Café du Parc in the old Chanel boutique space between the hotel and the Occidental. A classic French bistro serving three meals as well as take-out cuisine and pastries, the restaurant tapped Michelin three-star chef Antoine Westermann to develop the menu and consult in the kitchen. His longtime deputy, Christophe Marque, helms the kitchen on a day-to-day basis.

» The Scene:

The restaurant evokes a classic Parisian haunt — minus the decades of age. It seems no amount of crown molding, wainscoting or tile was spared in creating the interior, bathed in a classic white-and-blue palette. The small wine bar and take-out patisserie downstairs provide a nice spot to relax for a few minutes, while an open kitchen completes the picture in the modest upstairs dining room (it has only 86 seats).

» The Pour:

The wine list is exclusively French, tending toward whites and lighter-bodied reds. The most expensive bottle you’ll find is Moet White Star for $85, and most are priced in the $30 to $50 range.

» The Taste:

Tradition is the hallmark of Westermann’s menu. You’ll find salted cod poached in milk, hand-cut steak tartare with fresh egg yolk and a duck terrine. Sautéed skate is topped with a perfect combination of lemon, capers and butter. A collection of the side dishes — buttery potato puree, haricot verts, fresh noodles in butter — would make a fine meal by themselves.

The kitchen can be inconsistent, however, and as such, some of its creations sound better on paper. A “pot au feu” terrine of beef with sherry vinaigrette was too cold and woefully underseasoned to the point of having no flavor at all. And a 24-hour pork was advertised as “sautéed crisp,” but on my visit it was sautéed so crisp as to defeat the steak knife with which I attempted to cut it.

» The Touch:

Like the kitchen staff, most of the front staff here seems imported from Europe — mainly France — and after only a few weeks, their expertise and professionalism make service here already stand far above many downtown establishments.

On each visit, I’ve found the servers to be warm, accommodating and efficient.

» Don’t miss:

The desserts, which are everything you’d expect from a patisserie. The best I’ve had were a raspberry mousse and decadent chocolate profiteroles, filled with vanilla ice cream.

» Why you will go:

For the sidewalk café seating during these warmer months. With the trees in full bloom across the street at Pershing Park, this is about as nice a venue for alfresco dining as you’ll find downtown.

» Why you won’t go:

Because you’re a picky eater. For a modestly priced bistro, the choices here — from fish mousse to all manners of terrines and mousses — can be somewhat adventurous.

CAFÉ DU PARC

1401 K St. NW

202-942-7000

www.cafeduparc.com

Prices: Appetizers: $9 to $16; entrees: $16 to $23. Complimentary valet.

Hours: Breakfast: 6:30 to 10:30 a.m. Monday to Friday; 7 to 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; noon to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; limited menu 2:30 to 6 p.m. Dinner: 6 to 10 Sunday to Thursday; 6 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

» Bottom line: A magnificent setting and top-notch service, but the kitchen lapses into inconsistency.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com