This Oval doesn’t cut corners

(Andrew Harnik/Examiner)
Bathed in sage green and white, The Oval Room’s two dining rooms (above and left) are somewhat restrained visually, save for the bold, orange abstract paintings on the walls.

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Filed under: WASHINGTON , Jeff Dufour , Washington, DC Restaurant Review: Oval Room

WASHINGTON (Map, News) - Simply by virtue of its location one block from the White House, The Oval Room, since its inception in 1994, has remained one of the city’s top power spots. In recent years, however, continuity in the kitchen has been a problem, as chefs have come and gone with some regularity.

The restaurant’s current chef, Tony Conte, arrived last summer, and nearing his one-year anniversary with the classy-but-not-haughty eatery, it’s clear that he’s a keeper.

The Connecticut native, who came from the well-regarded Jean Georges in Manhattan, is cooking at a very high level, demonstrating an innovation and execution that places him among the top young chefs in the city. No wonder, then, that he was nominated in the category of “Rising Culinary Star of the Year” by the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington’s annual RAMMY awards.

» The Scene:

Bathed in sage green and white, the two dining rooms are somewhat restrained visually, save for the bold, orange abstract paintings on the walls. Now that spring is here, the 40-person outdoor patio makes for a nice lunch spot, with a view at the White House across Lafayette Park.

» The Pour:

The medium-length (and largely medium-priced) wine list is helpfully organized according to each wine’s body and intensity. Because Conte’s menu is short on fatty red meats, you won’t find a lot of hugely tannic reds, but rather rounder, softer, fruit-forward bottles.

» The Taste:

Conte’s fare is complex without being heavy, and innovative without being avant-garde. Raw tuna is treated to a complement of avocado, chipotle gelee and crispy tapioca. Icewine mignonette, passion fruit gelee and grated horseradish liven up roasted baby beets. A crispy snapper is dressed with Meyer lemon, tarragon and vanilla oil. A Maine peekytoe crab salad gets a garnish of chili emulsion and — most unexpectedly — grapefruit wedges injected with carbon dioxide, the better to make them fizz and pop in your mouth. Perhaps the best: the slow-poached egg appetizer, served with asparagus puree, black truffle vinaigrette and roasted parmesan crumbles. All in all, the menu is a beautiful study in balance and contrast.

» The Touch:

Owner Ashok Bajaj takes pride in service and it shows: Servers are polite, detail-oriented and extremely knowledgeable about what comes out of the kitchen. That said, things can get a bit slow outside on the patio.

» Don’t miss:

The warm, bite-sized sugar donuts, served for dessert with frozen espresso and white chocolate shavings.

» Why you will go:

On Saturday nights, the corkage fee is waived, and for $65 per person and 48 hours’ notice, Conte will create a menu around your wine.

» Why you won’t go:

Because if you’re looking for a bigger night out, this section of downtown gets pretty sleepy on weekends and late nights.

THE OVAL ROOM

800 Connecticut Ave., NW

202-463-8700

www.ovalroom.com

» Prices: Appetizers: $8 to $16; entrees: $16 to $29; chef's tasting menu: $70/$110 with wine pairings

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10:15 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday; 5 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; private functions only on Sunday