WASHINGTON (Map, News) - The original Il Mulino, a 25-year-old gem in New York’s Greenwich Village, remains one of the toughest reservations to book in Manhattan.

Owners Gino and Fernando Masci fill the room nightly with devoted regulars, including a few who look as if they could pass for extras on “The Sopranos.”

In recent years, the Masci brothers have expanded their empire worldwide, from Long Island to Japan, Las Vegas to Puerto Rico. Now, the show comes to D.C.

This isn’t high-concept Italian cuisine. Rather, it’s Italian with a steakhouse mentality — enormous portions and traditional, even rustic preparations. And like BLT Steak, its downtown predecessor from another New York chain, it’s outrageously expensive.

» The Scene:

Iron chandeliers, wall tapestries, deep reds and dark woods dominate the Old World-by-way-of-the-North Bronx dining room. A pyramid-like structure of Italian dry goods, some available for sale, sits in the center of the room, and serves as a staging ground for servers garnishing plates and preparing desserts.

» The Pour:

Italian offerings, unsurprisingly, dominate the somewhat modest wine list, yet a smartly selected array of American wines get a page of their own. After dinner, your waiter will appear with a block of ice containing fruit-infused grappa, for anyone inclined to try the fiery cordial.

» The Taste:

For fans of traditional Italian-American menus, there will be few surprises. Saltimbocca makes an appearance along with veal piccata, veal Milanese and veal scallopine. For something a bit different, try the chicken breast sautéed in cream and Calvados, or the filet of beef in a spicy Roman caper sauce.

All portions are big, but for the real Fred Flintstones out there, try the eight-bone rack of lamb or the tender, juicy osso bucco with a fork for the marrow.

The saffron risotto accompanying it and many other dishes was the biggest disappointment, emerging as nothing more than orange, sticky rice, with none of the starchy creaminess you’d expect from a proper preparation.

» The Touch:

Servers here kill you not only with kindness, but with quantity. Before you even look at a menu — and before anyone explains what in fact is happening — you’ll be served complimentary salami, fried zucchini, chunks of Parmesan cheese hacked right out of the wheel, garlicky bruschetta, mussels, the list goes on.

When the food arrives, the army of servers reappears, bringing course after course in rapid succession. The whole thing feels a bit rushed and frankly, a bit too New York-y for the pace of our semi-southern city.

» Don’t miss:

Any of the three shrimp scampi dishes — alla Francese, alla Romana or Fra Diavolo — or the cannelloni, stuffed with three kinds of ground, herbed meat.

» Why you’ll go:

You’ll take home leftovers enough for another meal or two.

» Why you won’t go:

You may reek of garlic for days.

IL MULINO NEW YORK

1110 Vermont Ave., NW

202-293-1001

www.ilmulinonewyork.com

» Prices: Appetizers: $8 to $24; pastas: $24 to $28; entrees: $28 to $65

» Hours: Lunch: noon to 2:30 p.m Monday to Friday; dinner: 5 to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Wednesday, 5 to 11 p.m. Thursday to Saturday

» Bottom line: A very Manhattan experience, where the food and service don’t always justify the expense.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com