BALTIMORE (Map, News) - Cafeteria-style dining may not be your style, but try it at Chef Paolino’s for the love of Italian flavors and portions.

The extensive menu has everything from the traditional spaghetti and meatballs to a complex capellini adriatica. The deli-style ordering process, coupled with self-seating, gives Chef Paolino’s a very relaxed feel. Many of the staff are students, which adds to Chef P’s low-key style.

Thanks to floor-to-ceiling murals of Italy’s scenic landscape, for a moment diners will forget they are in the small town of Catonsville.

As a standard offering, each entree comes with the house salad, a mix of lettuce, olives and radishes covered in a vinagrette dressing. This was certainly not the highlight of the meal. Too much vinager caused tongue stinging and was an unpleasant start to the meal.

Our bruchetta was much more delightful. The thick bread was smothered — but not soggy — with olive oil and topped with freshly chopped tomatoes and basil and melted mozzarella. Flavor and texture were perfectly paired in this dish.

My dish of tortellini alla panna was next. The bite-sized noodle pockets were cooked to perfection, stuffed with velvety cheese and topped with fresh green herbs. They were simply delicious, but the portion size, in Italian tradition, was too large to finish.

The two extra-large stuffed shells ordered by my date came completely covered in a generous layer of melted mozzarella cheese. The tender noodles were overflowing with fresh ricotta cheese and dripping with homemade spaghetti sauce.

The spaghetti, chicken parmesan, and pepperoni and sausage pizza are also very order-worthy.

Chef Paolino’s is welcoming to any diners, but not the place for intimate and private dates. The family-owned, family-friendly restaurant allows small children to run around and the chatter level rises to an almost annoying volume.

If you go

Chef Paolino’s Cafe

730 Frederick Road, Catonsville

410-747-4949

» Who you’ll see: Catonsville and Arbutus locals; small children

» What you’ll eat: Traditional Italian dishes with bursts of flavor

» What you’ll spend: $35 for two

» What you’ll drink: Soda for the kids, red wine for the adults

ecampbell@baltimoreexaminer.com