WASHINGTON (Map, News) - Michel Richard is one of D.C.’s true culinary superstars. The garrulous Frenchman turned Citronelle into one of the country’s foodie destinations, even before cooking in Washington was cool.

Problem is, meals there typically run to several hundred dollars even for two people, making the experience less than accessible for the average diner.

Enter Central, Richard’s modern French-American bistro. Its location along the Pennsylvania Avenue corridor is home to both fat-cat lobbyists and government workers — a fact not lost on Richard. The restaurant’s chief charm is its approachability: If you’re careful, you don’t need to spend a fortune.

» The Scene:

Despite numerous opening delays, the interior is a bit flat. The classy-yet-conservative neutral woods and modern lighting evoke an office lobby as much as anything. Yet it hasn’t stopped a slew of professionals from quickly filling the many barstools each night. In the dining room, the best tables get away from that chaotic scene and look toward the vast open kitchen.

» The Pour:

The wine prices vary like the menu prices, and the staff all seemed very knowledgeable about the selections. The cocktail list is further proof of the trailblazing roots of the restaurant: Take the Maple Manhattan, made with maple simple syrup and brandied cherries.

» The Taste:

Like a true bistro, nearly every offering is salty or fatty. That said, many of the best choices emerge from the deep fryer. Witness the letter-perfect fried oysters or the already famous fried chicken. The short ribs, braised for 72 hours, are the best I’ve had in Washington. Yet the tuna tartare was bland and uninspired. And the much-touted gougers (cheese puffs) were nothing more than a glorified bar snack — and a plain one at that.

» The Touch:

Up front, things are bit chilly, and not just from the blasts of cold air that tend to blow through the door. Eye-rolling stories already abound about the hostesses, and here’s one more: My companion and I were told, without so much as an apology, that the coat check was full so we’d have to keep our coats. (Memo: Figure something out.)

Then, the bartender informed us that they were out of cocktail glasses and asked if I’d like my martini in a wine glass. Not really. (Memo: See above.)

Table service, however, is typically pleasant and helpful.

» Don’t Miss:

Richard’s charcuterie plateaux and his “faux gras” of chicken liver — proof that he does rustic just as well as he does gourmet.

» Why you will go:

It’s possible to get out of here for $100 and still impress your date.

» Why you won’t go:

$100 still isn’t cheap, and the service may leave your date cold.

CENTRAL MICHEL RICHARD

1001 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington

202-626-0015

centralmichelrichard.com

Prices: Salads and appetizers: $6 to $18. Main courses: $16 to $28. Desserts: $8.

Hours: Lunch: 11:45 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner: 5:30 to 11 p.m. Monday to Saturday

Bottom line: A lively bistro that still hasn’t shaken its growing pains.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com