Steak gets a makeover

WASHINGTON (Map, News) - Chef Laurent Tourondel, already with a four-restaurant empire in Manhattan, landed in Washington this past fall with BLT Steak, a faithful recreation of his New York restaurant by the same name.

Like Charlie Palmer Steak before it, BLT continues the welcome trend of steakhouses that have something a bit more inventive to offer than just dark wood and cholesterol.

From a roasted beet and aged goat cheese salad to sautéed Dover sole to three varieties of exotic mushrooms, Tourondel brings a bit of French gastronomy to the prime-beef party.

Just because it’s more inventive than simple meat and potatoes, however, doesn’t mean it isn’t gluttonous. Grilled double-cut bacon shows up as a lunchtime appetizer. A decadent BLT sandwich is stuffed with foie gras and Wagyu beef. A side of Parmesan gnocchi arrives with a 3-inch mound of grated cheese atop the potato dumplings. A raw bar sampler offers $112 worth of shellfish.

» The Scene:

The neutral and chocolate tones of the room can remind me of a Crate & Barrel. The wide-open floor plan, with its emphasis on tables rather than booths, also means it’s often noisy, and there are precious few hiding places for dealmaking or romantic dinners. Better for see-and-be-seen lunches.

» The Pour:

Sommelier Jen Lordan, a transplant from BLT Fish, has assembled a wildly divergent wine list, with smart selections from around the world in all price points. It also includes a one-sheet “mini-list,” representing most styles, for those who don’t want to thumb through 20-plus pages.

» The Taste:

The nutty, earthy flavor of the Certified Angus Beef, aged as much as four weeks, rarely disappoints. Yet you may feel compelled to order a smorgasbord of sides — the potato gratin, creamed spinach and Hen of the Woods mushrooms are particularly noteworthy.

Not that everything’s perfect. The hash browns are mushy in the center. A huge portion of short ribs were riddled with gristle. And given the 1,700-degree heat at which they’re seared, the steaks can sometimes emerge Pittsburgh style — burned on the outside and rare in the center.

» The Touch:

Like all good steakhouses, service here is engaging and efficient without being stiff. However, your meal is likely to assume a leisurely pace unless you request otherwise.

» Don’t Miss:

The hangar steak, a cheaper, yet underappreciated and hugely flavorful cut of beef. Also, the simple-yet-terrific spiced swordfish and the raspberry bread pudding.

» Why you will go:

For the irresistible popovers that arrive in lieu of bread at the beginning of the meal.

» Why you won’t go:

Because neither your cholesterol count nor your expense account might be able to handle it.

BLT STEAK

1625 I St., NW

202-689-8999

www.bltsteak.com

» Prices: Salads and appetizers: $11 to $17. Main courses: $24 to $44. Desserts: $10.

» Hours: Lunch: Monday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner: Monday to Thursday: 5:30 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday: 5:30 to 11:30 p.m.

» Bottom line: An instant power spot, this is a steakhouse with a gourmet touch. The level of execution is high, but so are prices.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com