Jennifer Lordan, BLT Steak

WASHINGTON (Map, News) - Jen Lordan, a Boston native, has traveled the world, imported Chinese goods from Shanghai and lived all over the country.

But she got the wine bug after college in Telluride, Colo., she says, “working at a restaurant that had a 300-bottle list — all Italian. I was totally mystified and intimidated, but the owner was terrific and he started talking to us about it and teaching us things.”

From there, it was on to restaurants in Denver, Martha’s Vineyard and New York, where she connected with Chef Laurent Tourondel. She helmed the wine program at BLT Fish from April 2004 until this fall, when she moved to D.C. to create BLT Steak’s wine list.

Since moving to D.C., she’s assembled a 350-bottle list at the expense account-friendly restaurant. She hopes to gradually work it up to 400.

The wine list divides its offerings not only by varietal, but by flavor profile, using such headings as “Spicy, exotic” or “Earthy, soulful.”

Q What are your impressions of the clientele here, versus in New York?

A The clientele is pretty good. I wasn’t sure what to expect. People here are more familiar with American wines than France and Europe. There’s a lot of interest in pinot noir and zinfandel. And the people into Burgundy and Bordeaux are pretty well-educated. … I don’t like the snobby stereotype. You don’t see that around here a lot like in New York.

Q How did you go about putting together a red meat-heavy list?

A Coming from a fish restaurant, I’m very strong in pinot and white. I didn’t have to taste that much; I knew what I wanted. For cabernet and Bordeaux, I had to taste a lot more. We also have a “short list,” which changes twice a week. It’s about 40 to 50 bottles, a quick overview of the types of wines we offer.

Q Do you end up pairing a lot for people?

A The food is very nuanced and very ingredient-driven and allows for great experimentation and great pairings. I think it’s fun to find to find a wine to complement everything at a table. We found a little Greek wine that’s a perfect choice for the tuna tartare.

Q This is the kind of place that draws a lot of big spenders. How do you deliver some of those very rare, expensive wines to them?

A A lot of it is highly allocated. We’re working with our distributors, who have been very cooperative. A lot of the distributors stock older wines, too. My favorite is the ’94 Dominus. We’ve also got the classified Bordeaux — Haut Brion, Latour, Margaux, Cheval Blanc.

There’s some really fantastic pinot here in D.C., some single-vineyard offerings; stuff you can’t get in New York.

Q What grapes or regions are you excited about now?

A The Rhone Valley. I’m trying to interest people in it, and they’ve been really receptive. It’s very food-friendly, great with steak and short ribs. Also, white Burgundy and chardonnay from France in general. And you don’t have to spend a fortune. California wines are so different stylistically than what’s going on in France.

Q What’s your desert island wine?

A It’s going to be a white, which is unusual for a steakhouse. 2001 Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru “Valmor” [$237 on BLT’s list].

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